Chile has a landscape that will blow you away.
At 25 times longer than it is wide, the thin, slender country of Chile has one of the most diverse landscapes in the world.
It is more than 2,500 miles long, but just over 100 miles wide on average, so an organised trip with numerous internal flights and drives is the best way to tackle it.
In my recent travels there, within the space of 12 days I encountered the intense heat of the desert in Atacama region, the driest place on earth where the temperature was well into the 30s, and I froze in Antarctic winds in southern Patagonia and temperatures as low as 5C (and this was in their summer!).
Packing was a nightmare as I had to take clothes for all extremes but it was all worth it, as I saw spectacular mountains, lagoons, glaciers, volcanoes, deserts, salt plains, coastlines and oceans.
If you’re into scenery, geography or geology, this is the country for you.
The highlight for me was the Torres del Paine National Park, which has some of the most spectacular scenery in the world, but more of that next week.
There’s way too much info to get into just one feature so I make no apologies for writing on this fascinating part of South America both this and next week. I really want to tempt you out there!
Like many of its neighbouring nations, the culture of Chile reflects a blend of the ancient Andean lifestyles of the indigenous peoples and the Spanish heritage, established during the colonial era.
The people are friendly and warm, with English the second language. There are comfortable hotels and good food along the way, whichever region you’re in, so trust me, you’ll love it.
I travelled with the tour operator Journeys Of Distinction in a group of 10 other holidaymakers on a packed itinerary with countless excursions and terrific guides.
We began in the capital city of Santiago, set against the imposing backdrop of the Andes.
Santiago, with a population of 6 million, is the country’s largest commercial centre and worth a day or two. Major sights are the Plaza de Armas, with its Hispanic architecture, the beautiful hill of Santa Lucia where the Spanish conquistador, Pedro de Valdivia, founded the city in 1541, and various churches and buildings from the early 19th Century.
I won’t lie the Hotel Gallerias where we were billeted was not my favourite hostelry, but at least it was central (and all the other hotels on the tour were great).
Journey two was to Valparaiso, a 90 minute drive from Santiago, and I just loved this city.
The opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 deprived it of its raison d’etre as, from then, ships could reach the Atlantic by a shortcut whereas before they would follow the long route around Cape Horn, stopping in Valparaiso’s natural harbour en route.
Valparaiso is effortlessly beautiful. Faded, but still awash with colour and life, and has a very Bohemian feel.
Built on a series of properly steep hills, it rises above the ocean, with its colourful clapboard homes and quirky restaurants (don’t miss the Fauna great local food and loads of atmosphere).
As a Scot, I found the Chilean Naval Museum fascinating as I learned so much more than I already knew about Admiral Cochrane, the sailor from Dumbarton who founded the Chilean Navy.
It’s an excellent visit, and tells of the enormous influence the Scots had on the development of this beautiful country.
The 19th Century quirky funiculars (which have UNESCO World Heritage status) mean you don’t have to walk up all those hills, so don’t miss the fabulous Palacio Baburizza, the Fine Arts Museum, donated to the city by a wealthy Croatian who emigrated there and housed in a stunning late 19th Century mansion.
I’d have happily stayed an extra few nights there (we did it as a day trip from Santiago), but the next flight to the Atacama Desert beckoned.
However, we did make a quick stop in the Maipo Valley region where we enjoyed a wine tasting tour of the vineyards in the area (Chilean wine is world-famous and rightly so).
The Atacama Desert in the north of the country is where you’ll find the Valle de la Luna, or Valley of the Moon, named for its amazing alien landscape and rock formations.
It’s well worth the trip of a few kilometres west from San Pedro de Atacama, which was our base for a couple of nights.
We flew from Santiago to Calama and then drove a couple of hours to transfer to San Pedro de Atacama, 2,000 metres (6,500 ft) above sea level in a beautiful oasis.
We stayed at the Poblado de Kimal hotel for two nights, which was charming, suitably ethnic and very relaxing.
We visited the eerie Valley of the Moon in the afternoon, and set off early the next morning to visit the El Tatio Geysers, close to the Bolivian border.
Watching the plumes of steam in the early morning light is an unforgettable experience.
After breakfast, you walk around the geothermal fields then continue on to the Puritama hot springs where you can soak in the warm natural thermal pools.
The next day we explored the lagoons of the Altiplano, visiting Toconao, the oasis of a mountain river, and then crossed the Jerez Canyon to visit one of the largest salt lakes in the world, the Salar de Atacama.
Here we saw flamingos at Laguna Chaxa, then, after lunch, we drove up to an altitude of 4,700 metres (15,500 ft) for some truly incredible views over the blue-black Meiques and Miscanti lagoons and the volcanoes beyond.
Later that day we flew back to Santiago for one night. The airport Holiday Inn is exceptionally comfortable and has a great restaurant with good local food and wines at not silly prices.
After a fine meal, it was time to pack away the sunscreen, T-shirts and shorts, because the next day we were travelling south to the far cooler climes of Patagonia…more of which next week.
Factbox
Journeys of Distinction’s Contrasts of Chile 13-day tour is available as both a group tour from £3,375 or private tour from £3,975 pp including return flights from Heathrow, accommodation throughout, an itinerary of exclusive sightseeing and several meals. Group tours depart on October 18 and November 22. Private tours are created specifically with a tailored itinerary, on a chosen date with private transfers and your own guide. For more details on the Contrasts of Chile tour and for a copy of the Journeys of Distinction brochure call 0161 820 2157, or visit jod.uk.com. Please quote The Sunday Post when enquiring.
If you want to go off the beaten track contact marioly@viajesplanv.cl
She is fluent in English and her company can offer everything from wine tours to historical tours of Valparaiso and many other regions.
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