A taste of Austria in pretty Italian Alpine peaks

Austrian dreamland for mountain walkers in the Alpine peaks!

Pinch me and tell me I’m in Italy.

After all, surrounded by Heidi-style Alpine scenery, German-speaking locals and dirndl-wearing mdschens, it’s hardly what you expect.

And, with little evidence of the type of architecture, cuisine or Latin looks you normally find in Italy, I was beginning to think our driver had taken a wrong turn and landed us in neighbouring Austria.

But, in fact, this was the Val Gardena or Groden to give it its German name the somewhat unusual, but stunning, northern-most province of Italy.

Of course, had I done my research better, I’d have known that until the First World War it did indeed belong to Austria hence why it still looks, feels and sounds far more Germanic than Italian.

Dominated by the coral and limestone pinnacles of the Dolomites and steeped in a traditional Alpine way of life, in winter this is one of Europe’s largest ski areas. However, once the snow melts each year, hikers, cyclists and golfers descend to enjoy a picture-postcard landscape of lakes and mountains studded with almost 400 castles and fortresses.

The rocky Alps of Alto Adige are among the most dramatic peaks in Europe and offer all levels of walking. If you’re a bit of a gaiters and woolly bonnet buff there are no less than 18 peaks to tackle, each rising above 10,000ft and formed of dolomite limestone and porphyry a combination which turns soft pink at sunrise and flaming red at dusk.

From early September to early November, and mid-April to mid-July, it is just perfect for walking. With temperatures still in the high 20s and the kids back in their classrooms, it was peaceful and pretty much perfect.

Armed with my Munro-battered boots, I’d gone for a few days R&R and walking was decidedly on the agenda.

I was based in the village of Selva di Gardena or to give it its German name Wolkenstein which stands at 5,160ft and is surrounded by the pink-tinged Dolomites, filling the skyline to 8,000ft.

A network of mountain paths and fixed rope routes allow you to tackle walks such as the one to the Marmolada Glacier and this is when you’ll be glad it doubles as a ski resort in winter.

Strange as it feels to ride a cable car or gondola without the encumbrance of clumping great ski boots and skis, they certainly come into their own and make hiking all the more pleasurable and easy.

Hop aboard the cable car at Selva and you’re whisked up into the flower carpeted meadows at the foot of the Sasso Lungo, one of the most awe-inspiring mountain formations in the world.

Guided walks run daily to take you to the dramatic rock pinnacles and vast soaring cliffs that form a backdrop to the lush green slopes and scented pine forests.

In spring, summer and autumn, the abundance of Alpine flowers in the meadows is a wonderful and distinctive feature the soil is ablaze with flowers, some unique to this mountain range.

As your day of walking comes to a close and the bell-clanking cows make their way to the sheds for milking, there are few spots on earth to touch it for sheer beauty. Mountain inns or almhutten are dotted around at perfectly timed locations proferring ice cold beer and locally-cured speck sandwiches for just a couple of quid.

Beats the naff rip-off cafes you find in some British hill-walking locations any day. Another great joy about this region is its proximity to the stunning cities of Venice and Verona (your logical airports).

How great a holiday is that? Two of the world’s greatest cities and a stunning rural landscape to enjoy, all in the one trip.