Portuguese cycle holiday history and beauty at your own pace

With the Tour de France in Yorkshire this year and the recent glories of Chris Hoy and Bradley Wiggins, cycling has never been more popular.

Then there are the schemes to get us on our bikes and leaving the car at home. But a cycling holiday? That might seem like a contradiction in terms to some.

But consider winding your way down country lanes at your own pace, past vineyards and orchards under clear Mediterranean skies and the appeal of such an activity becomes much clearer. What’s more, with the availability electronic bikes (or e-bikes) that provide a battery-powered boost to the thighs, no one need fear being left behind or wilting from the strain. And Lycra is strictly optional!

Arriving in Lisbon, I was met by my guides from Headwater Holidays, the outdoor adventure company who had organised the bike hire and would drive us between our cycling routes.

That’s an option for those travelling in a group of typically 10-16 people.

Heading an hour north of the capital, we stopped off to visit the Convento de Cristo in Tomar.

It was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th Century and embellished down the years by the riches brought in from Portugal’s Age of Discovery.

This was an impressive introduction to the country’s history and culture.

From Tomar we headed west to the remote Alvados region and our destination for the night, the Emotional Hotel, a chic, Art Deco building overlooking a landscape of olive groves and rolling hills.

Each room has a unique design and guests can get involved helping cook their dinner made from locally-sourced ingredients, washed down with a selection of Douro Valley red wines.

When you’re cycling half the day, you’ve earned a slap-up meal. And helping to prepare it is all part of the fun.

Next morning provided an opportunity to work off the previous night’s indulgence when we again hit the roads.

The rolling countryside in Alvados makes for great biking terrain and though there are inclines to negotiate, with an e-bike even those who haven’t been on two wheels since the days of their paper round are able to manage.

With four settings, ranging from the gentle assistance of “eco” to the vigorous boost of “turbo”, a group of different ability can find a pace to share.

And if you feel like really earning your supper, you don’t need to use the battery at all.

After a morning travelling through farmland, passing shepherds and cowherds with their flocks, we reached the bike track that brought us into the town of Batalha.

A fine lunch of Portuguese seafood specialities, including the celebrated cod dish of Bacalhau, gratefully devoured, we visited the small town’s centrepiece monastery and Cathedral.

Construction began in 1386 to commemorate the Portuguese victory over the Spanish at the Battle of Aljubarrota the previous year that had effectively secured their independence as a nation.

An exhibition tells this central tale of Portugal’s history and its role in the discovery of the New World.

Onward then to the coast and the town of Nazar, a globally-renowned hub for surfers due to its world-record sized waves and stretch of golden beach.

Even if you don’t see any records broken, the coastline and the raw power of the Atlantic crashing into the bluffs make for a dramatic cycling route.

The next day, after a morning riding through heavy skies (I travelled in April which can be showery, but you’d be unlucky to catch much rain in the summer) we stopped in Alcobaa to grab coffee and pastries.

That’s another thing the Portuguese do well!

Another monastery beckoned, this one the most impressive yet. UNESCO Heritage certified, Alcobaa Monastery was founded in 1153 by the Cistercian Order and retained a strong connection with the Portuguese royal family for centuries, housing many of their tombs.

It’s seen its fair share of history as it was further developed during the Baroque era, then vandalised by French troops during the Peninsular War before the monks were finally evicted in 1834.

Our final stop was the medieval village of bidos.

The ride there passed through lush orchards and fields coming into bloom, along a seaside lake before we caught sight of the high walls and castle of the village.

It’s a bit of a tourist hotspot in high season those keen to enter into the spirit of the place might be interested by the Medieval Festival in early July but high up on the ramparts you can escape the crowds and appreciate the scenery you’ve just cycled through.

It’s a beautiful part of Portugal, and e-biking is certainly a great way to see the lie of the land.

Headwater offers self-guided, eight-night Contrasts of Coastal Portugal holiday costing from £1,237pp. The price includes accommodation with breakfast, one evening meal, bike hire (rental of an e-bike is £50 extra), a GPS device between two people, notes and maps, luggage transfers and back-up services. Flights not included. See headwater.com or call 0845 527 79027.

Easyjet (0843 104 5000, easyjet.com) fly to Lisbon from Edinburgh, Gatwick and other UK airports.

TAP (0845 601 0932, flytap.com) fly to Lisbon from Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester.

Visit Portugal is at visitportugal.com

By Euan House