You can always bet on York.
The young Norwegian tourist turned to leave with his drinks when he paused and said: “And I suppose you better give me a Mystery of Beer too.”
For a second there was silence as the barmaid who was serving shot her colleague a panicked glance. Then: “Are you sure you want to be doing that?”
Now, given we were in The House of Trembling Madness, a famous York pub named in honour of Delirum Tremens or DTs, this was alarming.
It might have been my imagination, but even the stuffed lion head, mounted above the bar with a pub of the year award wedged sideways in its mouth, looked uneasy.
The House, which dates back to Norman times and boasts a haunted chamber, sells hundreds of beers. The modern-day Erik the Red had just ordered their strongest.
And not just theirs. At 70% proof, it is billed as the strongest available beer in the world.
“I hope you’ve got good medical insurance,” this from my pal Mac, more of whom later. Yes, and it is OK, Britain’s top liver transplant hospital is nearby. Anyway, I once drank an 80% Norwegian rum. It burned my throat, but I am still here.”
Erik, who certainly looked happier, if not healthier, afterwards, is at the extreme end of an invasion of tourists who head to the Vikings’ former UK stronghold on food and drink pilgrimages.
They are catered for by a bewildering range of choices to suit all budgets. Unfortunately we were there too early in the summer to catch the House’s Suarez Special.
A Uruguayan beef, mushroom and red wine stew, it is cooked slowly until the meat falls apart much in the fashion of England’s football team. Boom, boom. We did, however, manage to dine royally at a couple of great eateries.
Both the food and the service were excellent at The Star Inn The City, a gastro pub with a nice line in humour: the Scarborough Wolf fish was listed with its Yorkshire pronunciation ‘Woof’ on the menu.
Also very good was Le Langhe, a deli/restaurant on Peasholme Green. Customers are offered 600 wines to choose from, a process made easier by the waiter who magically knew exactly the one we should have.
And with it there is a range of fantastic Italian produce topped by the platter of a dozen different cheeses for £15.
The main reason we were in York though was not to get fed and watered, but for a Day at the famous Races.
Taking advantage of Loganair’s shuttle service from Glasgow to Bradford we nipped down on the Friday night in around the time it would take to get to Ayr’s course.
It being Friday the 13th, superstition had clearly taken its toll. There were just seven other passengers on the 32 seat twin-propeller with the result the flight felt much like being in a private limousine in the sky.
As I say, though, it was really about the racing. I have been a fan of horse racing all my life and I’d argue a bright, sunny afternoon on the Knavesmire is pretty much as good as it gets. Especially when you have the right company lined up.
Mac and I have been pals since dinosaurs roamed the earth and are veterans of dozens of similar trips, many of which turn out to be thirsty work.
He is a huge sports nut and a man who literally saved my life on the night Scotland beat Sweden at the 1990 World Cup Finals (aye, savour that thought) when, tired and emotional, I took myself for a wander along a darkened Genoa dual carriageway.
And here is the good bit he just so happens to be a professional gambler who specialises in betting on the nags. Some people will tell you there is no such thing as a poor bookie.
I wouldn’t argue with their logic, but he has a good go at eating into their retirement funds. Sure enough in our convenient bolt hole at the Holiday Inn, he displayed all his savvy when suggesting we combine a little known yet bang on-form trainer’s runners into an each-way multiple.
The horses obliged and just like that he had turned a stake of just few pounds each into a return of several hundred. With all respect to the Minstermen the League Two footballers York City the Races are the biggest show in town.
This year, though, they have had serious competition in the shape of the Tour De France. The bike friendly city has celebrated their hosting of the grand Depart with great gusto.
There have been rides, displays, competitions, exhibitions and cinema shows all related to the bicycle.
Most notable by far have been the appearance of 100 bright yellow bikes which have been popping up all over the city, some in the most unexpected of places.
Donated by BikeRescue they will eventually be recycled (no pun intended) before being given a new lease of life in Africa.
In the meantime, though, they will continue to add a splash of extra colour to what is already one of Britain’s brightest holiday stops.
There may be a mystery to why anyone would choose to drink a 70% proof beer, but not as to how York continues to pull in the crowds.
Factbox
Holiday Inn York: hiyorkhotel.co.uk. Visit York website: visityork.org.
Flybe franchise partner Loganair operates twice daily flights to Leeds Bradford International Airport from Glasgow, Monday to Thursday, and a single return service on Fridays.
Lead-in fares start from £75.99 including taxes and a free 20kg baggage allowance. Flights can be booked via flybe.com or by telephoning 0871 700 2000.
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