York offers endless fresh opportunities

Picturesque York offers tradition and modernity by the bucketload, while Marmadukes Town House Hotel is the perfect place to stay.

York is one of those cities you can visit time and again and always find something new.

We’ve been a number of times over the years so knew that it was a treasure trove of historic buildings, museums and gardens. However, while it works hard at architectural conservation it also makes an effort to evolve and improve.

This year, my husband and I visited in early September, five years since our last trip.

And we were immediately struck by how many of the museums and historic buildings have embraced modern technology, enhancing the visitor experience.

We travelled to York by train with East Coast (standard advance returns from Dundee to York, booked online at eastcoast.co.uk, start from £47).

We stayed at Marmadukes Town House Hotel, an easy 10-minute stroll from the city walls and the heart of York.

The hotel is a Georgian boutique building with over 20 unique rooms each decorated in a luxurious period style, including hand-made beds.

From the off we were made to feel very welcome and the staff were more than happy to offer friendly advice regarding things to do while we were out and about.

We had decided to take advantage of a two-day York Pass which we‘d pre-arranged.

The pass costs £48 but allows entry into 30 of the city’s most famous attractions and can save you up to £25.

The iconic attraction in the city is York Minster, the Norman church which dominates the skyline.

We spent a leisurely afternoon exploring this historic wonder and its numerous stained glass windows, including the famous Rose window which was installed to mark the end of the War of The Roses.

In the undercroft is a fascinating exhibition telling the history of the Minster and showing the ongoing conservation work.

One of the main pillars supporting the central tower is left open and shows how the pillars were stabilised in the 1960s when it was discovered that the Tower was sinking.

Going from low to the high, we climbed the 275 steps up to the central tower.

The ascent isn’t for the faint-hearted but the panoramic views of the city and beyond were well worth the effort.

The York Chocolate story is an interactive guided tour which takes you through the history of chocolate itself and its links to York.

It was fascinating to hear how the Rowntree, Terry and Cadbury families came to be involved in the chocolate industry because of their religious backgrounds.

Happily, the tour offers plenty of opportunity to taste the star of the show, including the chance to make your own chocolate bar and to see a master chocolatier at work.

As you might expect in such a historic city, York has a number of museums and we took in quite a few of these during our visit, all courtesy of our York Pass.

I was really taken with the York Castle Museum with its exhibits of living spaces from throughout the last couple of centuries.

Sad to say my husband and I both remember a lot of the old-fashioned toys which are on display!

You can stroll through the Castle’s jail where Dick Turpin was held before making his final walk.

Many of the cells have video presentations of the prisoners telling their stories which really brings it all to life.

The highlight of the museum for me is Kirkgate, a recreation of a Victorian street complete with shops based on real York businesses.

As well as the front street, there’s a grim back alley complete with sights, sound and smells.

Clifford’s Tower is another well-known York landmark and at one stage was part of the castle, probably the Royal accommodation.

Now only the bare tower remains but again the climb, although less of a challenge than the Minster’s tower, is worthwhile for the pleasant views.

There was a real treat in store at the Treasurer’s House, a National Trust property in the shadow of the Minster.

Traditionally, the house of the treasurers of the Minster, the current building was renovated at the turn of the 20th Century by Frank Green, a wealthy industrialist with an eclectic taste in decor and furnishings.

What really makes it a great visit is the helpful attitude of the volunteer guides. A different guide in each room happily nattered and relayed tales of Frank Green’s eccentricities.

It’s more akin to a friendly chat than a formal tour and is all the better for it.

York is also gaining a reputation as a foodie city and there’s lots of evidence of this with delicatessens, restaurants, cafs and specialist food shops in almost every street in the centre.

We particularly enjoyed eating at The Whippet Inn in North Street where I had a 40-day matured ribeye steak which was one of the best I’ve ever had. I would recommend booking ahead as it’s very popular.

We both agreed that the culinary highlight of our break was our meal at The Lamb and Lion at High Petergate. It’s a centuries-old inn which, although unpretentious, offers good quality food.

It’s fair to say, my husband has a healthy appetite but he was floored by the Clifford’s Tower steak and ale pie which the matre d’ proudly told us was made from scratch on the premises.

Prices were very reasonable for such fine quality food. We found the York Pass a really convenient and money-saving way to visit the best York has to offer.

Although you couldn’t visit all the attractions in two days, it also includes entry to the Jorvik Centre, York Museum and the Merchant Adventurers Halls.

Of course, in such a historic city, there’s plenty to see for nothing.

York Museum Gardens, the National Railway Museum, the City Walls, the Shambles and the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey are all open to the public free and well worth a visit.

After two busy days we boarded the train back to Dundee, tired but happy travellers.

East Coast Standard advance returns from Dundee to York booked online at eastcoast.co.uk start from £47. Times and fares also on 08457 225225 or from staffed stations and rail travel agents.

Marmadukes Town House Hotel can be found at marmadukesyork.com. Prices from £89 per room, based on two adults sharing, including breakfast.

York Pass available at yorkpass.com or visityork.org.