Be amazed by Brighton’s quirky centre.
There’s nothing like a good lane, wouldn’t you agree?
They’re cosier than streets and less menacing than alleys.
A lane is a happy place. You could skip down a lane holding a posy of daisies and nobody would bat an eyelid.
And if you’re after some top quality lane action, Brighton’s the place for you.
I visited there for a week and walked down (and up) more lanes in those seven days than I’d done in the previous 40 years. They’re mad for lanes down Brighton way.
Although probably most famous for its pier and beach, it’s no surprise that the heart of the city is an area called The Lanes.
Once part of the old fishing town of Brighthelmstone, The Lanes is Brighton’s historic quarter.
It’s an intricate maze of twisting alleyways, filled with fantastic pubs and restaurants, and shops selling everything from antiques and jewellery to boutique fashion and design.
It’s a bit of a labyrinth, and it took me till day five before I finally got my bearings and could stop leaving trails of breadcrumbs every time I ventured in.
But if you’re going to get lost there are few places as pleasant to do it in than here.
Quirky bars like The Mesmerist and The Fishbowl and traditional favourite The Bath Arms are ideal for a refreshing break while lane-hopping of an afternoon or a fun night out.
And on the food front I found it hard to resist returning to the bustling Casa Don Carlos Spanish restaurant.
I recommend the artichoke hearts and the flambed chorizo. Bueno! The Giggling Squid Thai restaurant was another hit with my stomach and is well worth a visit.
The highlight of The Lanes was a place I thought only existed in fantasy books and dreams.
Choccywoccydoodah is a shop that, as the name suggests, makes and sells magnificent chocolate creations from cakes to sculptures to sweet piles of yumminess and great slabs of the brown stuff. I spent a long time there, just staring. And drooling.
But of course there’s more to Brighton than lanes.
There’s north lanes too! Or rather North Laines a trendy area stuffed with interesting independent shops as well as pubs and eateries you could happily lose a day and a night in.
If The Lanes has an ambience similar to York’s Shambles area, North Laines is more akin to Camden in London.
It’s hipster heaven, but is laid-back and fun and worth spending a day or two exploring and soaking up the chilled, left-field atmosphere.
Try the Eagle and the Basketmaker’s Arms for a cheeky pint and Bill’s for fab food in a vibrant atmosphere.
I stayed in the bohemian Kemptown area in a fantastic boutique hotel called Snooze (snoozebrighton.com).
Situated in a quiet street off a main road, it’s a welcome oasis of calm and relaxed friendliness. The rooms are super-stylish but as comfy as you like, and the welcome is warm and genuine.
There are a couple of excellent eating and drinking places just round the corner, with the Thomas Kemp, Sidewinder, and The Ginger Dog ticking my boxes (and filling my belly).
For a little culture to ease the guilt of all the eating, drinking and shopping pop in to the Royal Pavilion the spectacular seaside palace of George IV.
Its magnificent Indian-style buildings are set in pretty gardens and inside it’s full of historic furniture and paintings. But no trip to Brighton would be complete without a wander along the pier.
Existing in its current form since 1899, it’s an impressive construction.
It seems to go on forever. Just when you think it must stop another pavilion or bar or set of amusements or a roller coaster appears.
I have a theory that they’re secretly adding to it at night and will keep going until they reach France and can claim Normandy as a district of Brighton.
There’s plenty to enjoy on the pier itself (I won the Dolphin Derby twice. Just saying!) and the area on either side along the beachfront has loads of bars, cafes and shops.
Take a peek in the antique amusement arcade for some fun on Victorian mechanical games, and then jump on the Volks train (the worlds oldest electric railway) for a jolly jaunt along the length of the pebbly beach.
There’s something for all tastes and ages in brilliant Brighton, so I reckon it will be a surefire hit with pretty much anyone who goes.
But if lanes are your thing you SERIOUSLY have to get down there. Now.
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