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Take a trip to Edinburgh to discover Auld Reekie’s capital assets

Water of Leith in Edinburgh (Getty Images)
Water of Leith in Edinburgh (Getty Images)

THE buzz of Edinburgh’s city centre and history of Old Town are undeniable lures for tourists.

But as I discovered on a recent trip to the capital, the West End shouldn’t be overlooked.

The chic boutiques, classy dining spots, cosy pubs and historic sites that line its cobbled streets make the area a perfect spot for a tranquil weekend break.

Located directly opposite Haymarket train station, and right on the tramline, the stylish Haymarket Hub Hotel is an ideal base for exploring the whole city.

Its comfortable rooms are small but perfectly formed with contemporary red, black and white decor, and have fantastic views.

A very handy feature for tourists is a complementary smartphone in each room which offers guests unlimited local calls, internet access and a travel guide, complete with discounts on selected attractions.

As I sink into our luxurious bed, I scroll through its recommendations and land on William Street and its adjacent Strafford Street.

Tucked behind Shandwick Place and just a 10-minute stroll from our hotel, this colourful, cobbled oasis of boutique shops, quirky jewellers and independent retailers is a hidden gem.

And it happily boasts a handful of delis, restaurants and bars to relax in afterwards.

Princes Street (Getty Images)

In one fancy clothing boutique, we learn about Edinburgh West End Sound Walks, a series of free online walking tours that help us explore the area, including the gothic St Mary’s Cathedral, a beautiful landmark.

We follow a historical tour of the area’s Georgian architecture and attempt a mystery trek inspired by Edinburgh-born Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s character Sherlock Holmes.

Having worked up an appetite, we return to William Street to refuel at Voyage of Buck.

This quirky restaurant, themed on a fictional early 20th Century world traveller, is a feast for the senses.

The 1920s classy art deco-style décor, crackling fire and limited number of tables make for an intimate setting but the bar is packed later on.

My sea bass on a bed of mussel and samphire broth is delicate and delectable, while my partner’s Moroccan lamb and spiced couscous is perfectly pink with the right amount of heat.

We leave feeling very full and content and wander along Shandwick Place to the iconic Ghillie Dhu for some rousing live music and a whisky nightcap.

The next day, we venture out to explore another tourist destination suggested by our hotel’s smartphone travel guide.

En route is the cool, café-bar WestRoom on Melville Street, where we stop for brunch.

We settle in to enjoy a perfect Eggs Benedict with crispy bacon and a plate of fluffy waffles topped with generous dollops of Greek yoghurt and blueberry compote.

After we savour our cappuccinos, we follow Queensferry Street north to Dean Village, an old milling area that was once an industrial hub that fed the entire city.

The Water of Leith flowing through Dean Village (Getty Images)

It’s now a residential area but the public are free to wander around the beautiful old buildings reflected in the near-still river. It’s so tranquil.

We then take a leisurely stroll along the serene Water of Leith through the picturesque Dean Gardens that lead out of the West End. Back on the city streets, we’re well out of the West End and have accidentally timed our walk perfectly with the colourful Shoreditch Market.

Springing up most Sundays in Jubilee Gardens, it’s heaving with artisan foods, handmade soaps, jewellery, crafts and even some fancy dog biscuits. Even a familiar city can throw up surprises.

With budget airlines offering cheap city breaks, it’s easy to see why many opt for a trip to the continent over our Capital.

But if my weekend playing tourist is anything to go by, it pays to stay local.