Travel: Work up an appetite with walks around the Lakes

It’s been called the loveliest valley in England. And the Borrowdale Gates Hotel, nestled in the Lake District valley of Borrowdale, must be the loveliest hotel there.

We spent three days in it at the end of the summer, and were won over by its combination of superb food, comfortable rooms and instant access to this beautiful and interesting area.

The Borrowdale valley lies a few miles south of Keswick, stretching from the pretty shores of Derwentwater to the dramatic Honister Pass which, at 1,165-ft, is one of the highest in the Lakes.

Within the valley are a series of tiny villages with solid houses made from the local slate, the cleanest, clearest streams and a series of gentle paths. Less gentle are the paths that climb the sides of the valley to the fells above, but the views from the top are stunning. Many are accessible from the hotel itself.

Good food and beautiful walks are the two big attractions.

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Head chef Christopher Standhaven’s award-winning menu – which has two AA Rosettes for culinary excellence – combines traditional British dishes and classic French cuisine. Dinner, lunch, afternoon tea and breakfast are all served in the beautiful dining room, an entire side of which overlooks its gardens and the surrounding hills.

In addition to an elegantly presented three-course dinner, we also tried the hotel’s afternoon tea the following day, with sandwiches, scones and delicious cake served on a silver stand. After clearing all three layers I asked our waiter James if everyone did so – he tactfully replied that most guests left something, but if you’re particularly hungry…

Breakfasts were similarly stunning, with choices ranging from “traditional full Cumbrian” to salmon, haddock and perfect poached eggs.

After that start to the day, it was time to head out. The hotel is reached by crossing the Grange Bridge – a remarkable stone built bridge which arches over the River Derwent, and then driving through the tiny picture-postcard village of Grange.

Above the bridge, the valley narrows between the steep slopes of Kings How and Castle Crag. Carved by ice, this opening is know as the Jaws of Borrowdale. Castle Crag offers a number of walking options, including to its 950ft peak, with panoramic views to both the north and south.

Derwentwater, the third largest lake by area after Windemere and Ullswater, is a 20-minute walk away along a quiet lane, and from a little further around the lake we caught one of two boats which sail, clockwise and anti-clockwise, between various small villages and jetties. The lake itself offers canoes, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, rowing boats and little motor boats for hire. We got off at Ashness, and set off on a climb which took us across the picturesque 18th-Century Ashness Bridge, a stone-built “packhorse” bridge that is a gift for photographers. Carrying on up the road, the trees give way to a stunning view over Borrowdale, Derwentwater, neighbouring Bassenthwaite lake, and the surrounding fells. A further climb takes you to the hamlet of Watendlath, which boasts a tranquil lake and a farmhouse cafe.

After descending back to the shore road, we took the No. 78 bus – an open-topped double decker – which runs every 30 minutes between Keswick and the town of Seatoller, getting off at the carpark for the Bowder Stone. A short walk took us to this 2,000 tonne rock – originally from Scotland and brought here by a glacier. It’s a popular challenge, though I went up on the metal staircase that has been installed, only to find the top teeming with ants – presumably a result of people enjoying a picnic once up there.

After Seatoller the road climbs up to the Honister Pass. Here is the Honister Slate Mine, which mines the area’s distinctive Westmorland Green Slate and offers both underground tours of the mine, but also, for the adventurous, the Via Ferrata, which blends scrambling and climbing along Honister Crag, while clipped to a cable at all times for your safety.

If that’s too much, Keswick, the second largest town in the Lakes, is just a 20-minute drive away and well worth a visit. When we visited, a lively street market offered local produce and street-food options. The town is full of cafes and galleries, as well as numerous outdoor shops, ranging from cheap and cheerful High Street names to those selling climbing equipment, and others specialising in Scandinavian clothing. Oh and there’s a museum to the pencil industry. Really.

Factfile

The Foodie Escape package offers two nights bed and breakfast, a three-course dinner and afternoon tea for two people. Otherwise, rooms are from £150 and a three-course meal has a set price of £58 pp. For more information visit Borrowdale Gates Countryside Hotel | Keswick, Lake District (borrowdale-gates.com)