Travel: Edinburgh is a city of eternal beauty under shifting skies

Edinburgh is, in the words of Alexander McCall Smith, “a city of shifting light, of changing skies, of sudden vistas – a city so beautiful it breaks the heart again and again”.

Over the course of 24 hours in Scotland’s capital it’s clear to see why it inspires such awe among eminent residents like the No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency author.

It’s not somewhere you want to waste time either, so bravo for the quickest, most hassle-free hotel check-in.

Because we’ve all been there – wearily joining a seemingly never-ending queue at hotel reception after a long journey, just one more hold-up at the end of a day of delays.

At Royal Garden Apartments operated by San Francisco hoteliers Sonder, no such bad luck – just download an app and check-in in advance. Then, on arrival, unleash your inner VIP by walking straight past reception and taking the lift upstairs to a luxury apartment.

My apartment hallway leads into a wooden-floored, open-plan kitchen and living room. Ochre walls are adorned with the work of Scottish Colourist painter Francis Cadell, a famous New Town son. A blue velvet sofa faces a flatscreen TV. The cooking area has an oven, coffee maker, dishwasher, microwave, fridge, washer-dryer and is fully stocked with cutlery and crockery.

In the bedroom, side lamps on gold night stands sit either side of the mattress, and woodland trail wallpaper stylishly complements the view of the gardens outside. The en suite, decked with marble brick tiles, has a mixer shower and bath, with a set of Davines toiletries.

The apartment looks out on to the property’s private garden which is easily reached down a flight of stairs. The back door links to Queen Street Gardens, a hidden gem only open to neighbouring residents – all this in the heart of the New Town, just a 10-minute walk from Waverley Station and less than five minutes from St Andrew Square.

A visit to the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, across the road from Royal Garden Apartments in Queen Street, is a must.

The building itself is a Neo-Gothic wonder, and once inside, the Great Hall keeps your gaze. The centrepiece is John Flaxman’s statue of Robert Burns, while William Hole’s friezes and murals capture key figures and pivotal moments from Scottish history across all four walls.

Just a few favourite things in the galleries: Humphrey Ocean’s oil painting of footballing hero Danny McGrain, not in kit but in kilt; a portrait of violinist Nicola Benedetti at Westminster Abbey by Bonnybridge artist Calum Stevenson; and Ken Currie’s Three Oncologists, showing cancer specialists as ghostly figures as they walk into darkness. It’s a thrill too to study Alexander Nasmyth’s painting of Burns, so recognisable from shortbread tins and book covers, up close.

I head across the city, via the Santu coffee bar in Canongate to grab a latte served in a bright little yellow cup, and set off to climb Arthur’s Seat.

© Shutterstock

The first rule of hill walking club is to come equipped with sturdy footwear and, alas, I’ve failed at the first attempt, with my casual boots not having the best grips. I head to Holyrood car park and follow the main walkway but, finding a steep section a bit of a struggle, I retrace my steps and follow Queen’s Drive instead, taking the looping way around. It’s a longish but easyish walk and the views over Duddingston Loch and out to Portobello are fantastic.

At the top of Arthur’s Seat, an ancient volcano, care is needed as the peak is very rocky and even on a weekday it’s bustling with tourists zigzagging around. But the views across the city are awesome, from the castle to Easter Road Stadium and far beyond.

Later, I order a pepperoni from Gordon Ramsay’s Street Pizza takeaway restaurant and relax in the apartment.

The next day, almost ready to head home, I’m killing some time in Fortitude coffee shop in Stockbridge, when news breaks from across the city that Nicola Sturgeon is resigning as first minister. Shifting skies, indeed.

P.S.

Calling avid readers: get lost among rooms of books on the top floor of Toppings and use the library ladders to reach your favourite titles, while Rare Birds in Stockbridge is devoted to female writers.

Factfile: 

Stay at Royal Garden Apartments from £120 (studio), £127 (one-bedroom) and £157 (two-bedroom) per night. Book via sonder.com for a 15% discount on rates elsewhere.