Travel: Mile-high city Denver is more than just the Rockies

Ask most Americans what they do and 99% of the time they’ll talk about work. Not in the mile-high city. With the iconic Rocky Mountains adorning the Denver skyline, its residents are outdoors-obsessed.

However, the state capital is more than just a stop-off for Colorado’s spectacular scenery. A thriving art scene, walkable downtown district and a farm-to-table approach to food, plus direct flights from Dublin with Aer Lingus – clear US customs in Ireland without queues – make Denver the perfect city break with a Rockies twist.

Foodie heaven

Whether food markets or Michelin stars, Denver is all about local produce and sustainability. The classy Mercantile embodies this ethos, with chef-owner Alex Seidel using local ingredients to refine American comfort food. Next to Mercantile, tucked away in iconic art-deco Union Station, lies Snooze. A great brunch spot – order the whimsical pancake flight, including pumpkin, pecan and strawberry shortcake.

A trip to the States is incomplete without a steakhouse sojourn and, boy, is A5 worth it. Situated on the corner of 15th street, a glamorous bar, red brickwork and large bay windows set the tone. Despite Michelin-guide status, it’s the no-nonsense succulent cuts that grab the headlines.

Flying in the face of fine dining, Colorado boasts the infamous Rocky Mountain Oyster made from bull’s testicles. If you’re feeling brave, Colorado’s first microbrewery, Wynkoop, serves up a liquid stout version of the dish, along with some more conventional craft beer.

Info at: www.mercantiledenver.com (mains from $38), www.snoozeeatery.com (pancakes from $10), www.a5denver.com (steaks from $47), wynkoop.com (beer $8)

Art attack

Culture vultures may not rate Denver high on their art hitlist, but they should. The city has a scene as dynamic and diverse as the surrounding landscape. Start at Denver’s Golden Triangle neighbourhood for a day of gallery hopping.

The Clyfford Still Museum (under-17s go free) and Denver Art Museum are the two big hitters, with the former housing a whopping 95% of the abstract expressionist’s art.

Still insisted his oeuvre be exhibited in a singular space – unusual in the art world – meaning this powerful collection tracks the sometimes narcissistic artist’s entire life.

Denver Art Museum hosts fresh and interactive displays, including one of the largest Native American art collections in the USA.

Info at clyffordstillmuseum.org (adult ticket $15), denverartmuseum.org/en (adult ticket $27)

Cool Colorado

Denver’s, maybe even Colorado’s, coolest area is undoubtedly RiNo. A former industrial hub turned art district, RiNo bursts with urban charm, populated by creative spaces, trendy bars, galleries and cafes, but the biggest draw is arguably the street art. The best way to admire and better understand more than 200 murals is to book a Denver Graffiti Tour.

The guide not only gives a fascinating insight into the district, previously known as the “Harlem of the West”, but also explains the flourishing street art scene, messaging behind the works, and the genre’s complicated relationship with gentrification. After an hour or two on your feet, recharge at Denver Central Food Market, with its array of stalls including wood-fired pizza and an artisan deli with grilled cheese sandwiches.

Info at denvergraffititour.com ($30 per adult for tour)

Where to stay

A great location, a buzzing soda fountain-inspired cocktail bar, loft-style room décor and free happy hour margarita served from a hip retro van, The Maven isn’t your everyday hotel.

It features more than 700 original works by Colorado artists, creating a low-key coolness. The area around the hotel was once home to Windsor Dairy – hence Dairy Block neighbourhood – but is now a vibrant micro-district, including a cute lane, the Alley, full of bars and a lively food market (Milk Market).

Get outdoors

Just a two-hour drive from Denver lie glistening alpine lakes, vast forests and jagged snow-capped mountains; Rocky Mountain National Park really does feel like another world.

A drive to Rocky Mountain National Park is like visiting another world.

If you rent a car, you can drive in – the $15-35 entry fee, depending on pass type, gives access to epic hikes such as Emerald Lake and Alberta Falls. Alternatively, Aspire Tours runs excursions for both hiking and general sightseeing, including a knowledgeable guide, transport and entry to the park, and lunch. Guides are in the know about where best to spot elk, moose and eagles.

Another great day trip lies to the south of Denver. Pike’s Peak is the highest summit of the southern Front Range of the Rocky Mountains and is served by a quaint cog railway that ascends 14,110 feet to the top. If you’re feeling brave, the Barr Trail is a long, hard, summit-topping 13.5-mile hike. The view is so dramatic it is said to have inspired “America the Beautiful”, a close second to the US National Anthem. A day trip to Pike’s Peak can be combined – travelling with Aspire tours – with visits to impressive rock formations at Garden of the Gods and Manatee Springs, a town straight out of the Old West.

Info at aspire-tours.com (from $159 full day tour)

Factfile

Fly direct from Glasgow or Edinburgh via Dublin with Aer Lingus to Denver, Colorado. Operating seasonally four flights weekly, up to 27th October and again from March 30 2025. Economy fares start from £449 each way and Business Class from £3,239 return, including taxes and charges. To book visit aerlingus.com. A night at The Maven starts from $260 For more information on Denver, please visit: denver.org