Travel: Discover a foodie fairy tale in enchanting Vilnius

Arriving in Vilnius on a rainy Friday afternoon after an early-morning flight, I was craving comfort food. And I had come to the right place.

After checking into my hotel, I headed to the Rotonda in the city centre. Located at the foot of the city’s iconic Gediminas Castle, this quirky ice-cream parlour-turned-restaurant serves up both traditional Lithuanian fare and modern classics. I ordered cottage cheese doughnuts, a local favourite. Sweeter than expected, these were a delicious snack, and are just one of many local dishes made using Lithuanian curd. The much-loved cheese is so popular in Lithuania that it was granted a Protected Geographical Indication by the European Commission.

© Justas_Krilavicius

After filling up on doughnuts, I made my way to the Vilnius TV Tower, a short drive from the city centre. At 326.5 metres high, this impressive structure is the tallest building in Lithuania. The tower’s Pauksciu takas restaurant, located on the 19th floor, rotates 360 degrees every 55 minutes and provides glorious views over the city. Enjoy salads, snacks, steaks, and a variety of deserts here. For those feeling brave, the TV tower is complete with an open-air platform where visitors can take in a panoramic view of Lithuania’s capital city.

In the evening, I headed to Augustin restaurant for dinner. Inspired by a nearby Augustine monastery, this restaurant is not only designed to reflect the aesthetic of a church, with large candle chandeliers hanging from a concrete ceiling, but the whole concept is based around the idea of communal living. Serving small plates full of flavour, Augustin strives to create an environment where people come together to enjoy food as a shared experience.

I had mac and cheese croquettes served with serrano ham, cheddar cheese mousse and pecorino cheese (heavy but delicious); beautifully presented zucchini fried in batter with mojo verde, saffron aioli and pecorino; and roasted sweet potatoes with quinoa, parsley, pistachios and aioli – a simple dish but possibly the nicest thing I’ve ever eaten. The service was excellent and the food exquisite; it’s no wonder the restaurant has been selected by the Michelin Guide.

I started day two of my weekend in Vilnius with a tour of the city’s Old Town. The winding narrow streets lined with colourful buildings are reminiscent of a fairy tale. One of the largest surviving medieval old towns in Northern Europe, this beautifully preserved pocket of the city will surprise you at every turn.

Baroque buildings are mixed in with gothic churches, not forgetting the city’s impressive neoclassical town hall. I stopped off at a bakery here to sample some kolacky, cream cheese pastries with a fruit filling, which were the perfect accompaniment to coffee for a mid-morning snack.

Almost every café in the Old Town was advertising bright pink soup in their windows. I soon learned this was Šaltibaršciai, perhaps Lithuania’s most famous dish. Heading to Stikliai Tavern to give this a try, I discovered Šaltibaršcia is made using kefir and beetroot, often served with a hard-boiled egg. As is customary, the soup came with potatoes on the side. Unlike anything I’ve ever eaten, this was a tasty meal, and definitely nutritious. However, I would advise ordering a small bowl for the first time, as it does have an unusual flavour, which may not be to everyone’s taste!

My afternoon consisted of a wander through the city centre. Glorious in the sunshine, this area is filled with great shopping and gorgeous buildings and reminded me, in parts, of Rome. When I pointed this out to a tour guide, she told me that Laurynas Gucevicius, the Polish-Lithuanian architect who designed many of these buildings, studied classical architecture in Rome, hence the similarities. There are however also nods to the country’s Soviet history, with structures such as the National Art Gallery, the Opera and Ballet Theatre and the Contemporary Art Centre built in a distinctly Soviet style.

Next on the agenda was Lukiškes Prison. Once a high-security prison, this is now open to the public for tours and used as an arts venue, playing host to live music and cultural events, complete with a trendy bar. An unusual spot to say the least, Vilnius is nothing if not surprising!

After lots of walking, I headed to Grey restaurant, ready for a hearty meal. It was the perfect time to try Cepelinai (potato-meat dumplings), accompanied by local lager. Made with pork, onion, egg and potatoes, the dumplings are served with sour cream and bacon. Exactly the kind of stodgy food I was craving, and a perfect final meal in Vilnius.

In a world of ultra-processed food, Lithuania is exceptional in that it hasn’t forgotten how to cook. The meals I enjoyed were lovingly created from scratch using fresh ingredients and contained no artificial flavouring, something which is now so rare.

If real, creative food is your thing, Vilnius is a must-visit.

P.S. Hot air balloons have become a symbol of Vilnius, being a fixture of the skyline during the summer months. This incredible experience allows you to drift over the gorgeous scenery below, soaking up the spirit of the city. Flights tend to take place early in the morning or later in the evening, allowing you to watch the sunrise/sunset over the landscape. Note that all flights are weather-dependent. For more information and bookings visit ballooning.lt/en/

Factfile

There are direct flights to Vilnius available from several London airports. Vilnius is a compact, walkable city, but there are trams and buses available. Hotel Artagonist in the Old Town offers excellent accommodation in a quirky setting, the walls adorned with art inspired by the local area. Visit govilnius.lt for more information on what to see and do in Vilnius.