Edinburgh’s genius history, horror... and luxury at Rutland Hotel

In 1771, author and poet Tobias Smollett said: “Edinburgh is a hotbed of genius”.

And certainly it is hard to disagree when you consider the sheer majesty of the city. Its fantastic vistas and magnificent architecture offer more than a nod to the capital’s 18th Century age of enlightenment.

Others – crime-writer Ian Rankin for example – will have you believe Edinburgh is a city of contradictions.

A place where the well-heeled go about their business as the less fortunate wheel and deal in an attempt to make ends meet.

And we certainly enjoyed experiencing Edinburgh’s contradictions in full during a recent city break.

Invited to sample the delights of the newly refurbished Rutland Hotel, on the end of Princes Street and just a stone’s throw from the iconic castle, we found a destination that hints at both a rich history and a taste of modern opulence.

Yet, just a mile away, lie Edinburgh’s vaults. A location described by Most Haunted Live as one of the scariest places on earth.

These days a popular tourist destination for the millions who visit the city, the denizens of these vaults were once the poor and worthless. The criminals, those persecuted by society, ladies of the night… all huddled together under the Old Town while, above ground, those far more fortunate went about their business.

But more on that later.

Back at the Rutland, we checked in on a dreich late afternoon, just as Edinburgh’s many magnificent spires and monuments disappeared into the gloom. The warm welcome we received was, thankfully, at odds with the conditions. We were shown to our apartment for the next two days by a friendly, knowledgeable host.

The basement property was beautifully appointed and equipped, with a large kitchen and dining area, sitting room, en-suite bedrooms – and even a generously-proportioned rear garden (something that must come into its own during the summer months). It feels like a lot of space for this part of town.

Staying just long enough to congratulate ourselves on having been afforded such generous quarters, we decided to take an early evening stroll along George Street, stopping off in one of the many busy bars for a drink, before returning to the Kyloe restaurant adjoined to the Rutland (the hotel itself, Kyloe and the on-site Huxley bar and restaurant are owned by the Signature hospitality group) to enjoy dinner.

And enjoy it we most certainly did. A menu offering mouthwatering steaks, fish, fantastic sides (the “blooming onion” is well worth a try) and fine wines is duly complemented by a fine view of the city. The waiting staff were helpful and well-informed without being intrusive or pushy.

And it would be truly remiss not to make a special mention of the campfire s’mores for desert. A chocolate crémeux on a shortbread base, topped with charred marshmallow, chocolate ice cream and served with toffee sauce in a smoking cloche sounds good – and tastes considerably better. A truly memorable concoction.

Back to our apartment, and closing the curtains it was easy to forget we were right in the heart of a capital city. Enjoying the quiet cosiness, there was just time to sample the delights of the jacuzzi bath before sinking into the oversized bed for a very peaceful night’s rest.

Breakfast was enjoyed at The Huxley. Reluctantly passing on the breakfast cocktails, the streaky bacon, candied pecans and maple syrup atop a mountain of fluffy brioche bread proved a fine way to start the day.

Discussion of how to spend a rare period of child-free liberty ensued over a cup of tea and, with the rain pounding on the windows, the idea to go underground into the infamous city’s vaults was duly embraced.

Booking on a user-friendly app, we met our guide Rachel, who led us from the Royal Mile down the less salubrious Cowgate and so, eventually, into the vaults.

Full of chilling stories (supplemented by the macabre display of torture implements on arrival in this dark, breathless world), it is only too easy to imagine some of the horrors that must have played out just below the surface of the city’s streets.

Tales of witchcraft and murder send a visceral thrill through visitors to this horrific monument to a less enlightened past. Terrifying, yes, but also a very decent way to spend an hour on a wet Edinburgh afternoon.

That said it was something of a relief to exit the vaults and return to the rather more luxurious confines of The Rutland – a contradiction well worth experiencing.

Factfile

A standard double at the Rutland (including breakfast) starts from £355 per night. One-bedroom apartments start from £431.50 per night. For the two-bedroom apartment, the rate starts at £451 per night.