If you’re a fan of Ian Rankin’s books and Edinburgh, you have to go on a Rebus hunt.
And a rainy afternoon was the perfect time to check out his favourite pub.
As anyone who has read the novels knows, Edinburgh is not only home to the famous Scots author, but also to his creation, Inspector John Rebus.
The detective is the focus of more than 20 novels that have sold millions of copies.
But the city is as much a central character.
A growing number of people from all corners of the globe are travelling to Edinburgh to see the locations from the books for themselves: the pubs, the public buildings, the police station where Rebus works and even the mortuary where autopsies on victims are held.
Our focus, however, is where he and his creator enjoy a stiff drink.
The Oxford Bar, in the back streets of the New Town, is a traditional “old man’s pub” and is like stepping back in time to the ’50s. The décor is old-school, but cosy. You can just imagine Rebus there.
Sadly we failed to find him, but we were destined to find something much better in our digs for the night.
Nira Caledonia is a boutique hotel tucked away in a quiet cobbled street in the New Town close to Stockbridge just a hop, skip and slightly tipsy jump from the hustle and bustle of Princes Street.
From the moment you step inside the elegant Georgian building, you know you’re in for a night dripping with grandeur and luxury.
The hotel is spread across two townhouses, one the former home of John Wilson (1784-1854) a philosopher and essayist best known for his writings under the pseudonym Christopher North in Blackwood’s Magazine where fellow writers included George Eliot, John Buchan and Joseph Conrad.
He lives on at Nira Caledonia, where the restaurant and bar are named after him. It seems Edinburgh is home to many great writers.
Our room, a Suite Plus, is huge and decked out in the most comfortable, contemporary décor.
The floor-to-ceiling windows offer a sprawling view across the city. Inside, no attention to detail has been spared, from the 2,000 pocket sprung bed big enough for a whole family to the Jacuzzi bath and posh compostable pod coffee machine.
There’s an air of a home from home – but my little abode, as lovely as it is, is neither as big nor stylish as this.
Getting ready for dinner downstairs in the Blackwood’s Bar and Grill is a pleasure in these gorgeous surroundings – and the best bit is the travel time which averages at around thirty seconds, or one small golden spindled flight of stairs.
Nira Caledonia prides itself in sourcing local and giving its guests the best, and that’s as true of the dining experience, which was exquisite.
Succulent steak and triple-cooked chips drizzled in peppercorn sauce never tasted so good – especially followed by a chocolate and honeycomb torte, all washed down with a fine red wine in a cosy, contemporary setting.
And the best bit is we don’t even have to leave the building to get back to our room for the night.
I wake next morning feeling more refreshed than I have in years (must be the incredible bed) and enjoy a leisurely breakfast, then head out for some fresh air.
Stockbridge is an inner-city haven well worth taking a few hours to explore. The independent shops give the area a character of its own and coffee culture is clearly thriving here – you can’t walk 300 yards without the tempting aroma of freshly brewed beans wafting toward you.
Fuelled and ready, we head back towards Princes Street.
With the city tentatively getting back to normal after lockdown, it’s far less busy than usual – especially with no Edinburgh Festival hordes packing the place out.
So there’s no better time for pulling on a pair of comfy shoes and taking in the historic sights by foot. Gaze in wonder at the castle, marvel at the Sir Walter Scott Monument, and meander through the Grassmarket.
If shopping is your bag, Princes Street and the adjacent George Street offer clothing and treats to suit every budget. And in between the two, Rose Street’s famed bars are perfect for a well-earned refreshment.
It doesn’t take a detective to work out that Edinburgh is the perfect pitstop for a night of post-lockdown luxury.
P.S.
Nira Caledonia aims to give a bespoke experience and you can’t get any more unique than having your own whisky. Adelphi Whisky has provided them with a superb 12-year-old Glenrothes single malt.
Factfile
Nira Caledonia reopens on August 7. Prices start from £165 per night. Visit niracaledonia.com
Customers can buy a monetary voucher and get 25% extra credit to spend at Nira Caledonia.
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