Hebridean Isles: Master sheds a tear on ferry’s final voyage

MV Hebridean Isles passing Braehead on its way to Glasgow's King George V Dock.

The fact that islanders braved a freezing cold night to say goodbye showed clearly the affection held for the retiring veteran of the Caledonian MacBrayne fleet – MV Hebridean Isles.

On Monday, her engines were turned off for the final time in Glasgow’s King George V dock after sailing down from Stornoway, something of a farewell tour for a vessel that’s served on almost all routes of Scotland’s ferry network.

Like saying goodbye to a faithful companion or a distinguished long-serving colleague, the outpouring of love was a reminder why ships are given the status of a living thing by referring to them as ‘she’.

At the helm for the final journey was Michael Dalgaty, one of the ship’s three masters, who shed a tear disembarking for the final time.

Michael Dalgaty on the bridge of the Hebridean Isles for the last time. — Michael Dalgaty on the bridge of the Hebridean Isles as FWE (Finished With Engines) is rung on the ship’s telegraphs for the final time.

“It was sad leaving Stornoway on Sunday, knowing that it was the last time I was ever going to take the ship out of a pier,” he said.

“We gave a couple of toots on the whistle as we left, the MV Loch Seaforth gave us a couple as we passed them.

“Even half ten at night when we passed Port Askaig, on the normal run for the Islay service she’s done for the last 24 years, there were a whole load of people stood waiting for us as we passed in the night.

“I had a wee tear in my eye when I was leaving the ship. People think it’s just bits of metal but it’s the people on board that make the whole thing.

“We’re on it for two weeks and you live on board. You spend more time with the crew on the ship than with your own family because you live as well as work with them.

“I have two happy memories that come to mind, the first one was getting promoted to Master on the Heb Isles, the first CalMac ship that I joined when I started with the company.

“The second was making a young boy’s dreams come true. He had been asked by his nursery on Islay what he would like to be when he was grown up.

“He said he wanted to be a Captain of the Hebridean Isles. His mother made arrangements for him to visit the Bridge. The excitement of him visiting was tremendous, I think it made his week and it was an enjoyable moment for all on board.”

The Hebridean Isles had served Scotland’s island communities since 1985.

Built at Cochrane’s Shipyard in Selby, North Yorkshire, she was the first CalMac ship to be named by royalty, launched sideways into the Ouse by the Duchess of Kent.

Affectionately known as the ‘Heb Isles’, her first job covering Stornoway to Ullapool while the regular vessel was undergoing maintenance.

She then found a home on the ‘Uig Triangle’ route between Skye, Harris, and North Uist.

The ship’s longest stint was serving Islay and Colonsay between 2001 and 2024.

She was worked hard all the way to retirement, covering for gaps in an ageing fleet and ending her service back at Lewis filling in while MV Loch Seaforth was in dry dock.

The passengers and crew formed a special bond with the ship over the years, and plenty have shared their memoires in recent weeks, including many meetings of future spouses on board.

While Hebridean Isles was well travelled, Michael, who has been with CalMac since 2015, took the ship into unusual territory on her final journey.

“I’ve certainly never taken a ship that far up the river to Glasgow before,” he said.

“It was really nice to do it. There are three regular masters and all of us really wanted to do it. The way the rotas worked out it landed on me.

“You couldn’t’ve asked for a better day for it. Coming under the Erskine Bridge there was a low lying fog and you could just see us through the haze.

“Backing into King George V Dock, at the last minute I asked the mate to take a picture of me ringing to say I’m finished with the engines for the last time. It was quite sad.”

People gather to watch Hebridean Isles sail past Braehead.

The ship’s safety certification expired on Thursday, and the current crew are taking up positions on other vessels. Parts from the ship will be used to help other ferries keep running, and the rest will be scrapped and recycled.

“It was getting very tired and presenting issues that we had to work hard to overcome,” Michael said. “But most ships don’t last 40 years, so it’s testament to how well it was built at the time.

“The open bridge wings are unusual on modern ships. Every time you came into a pier you’re standing out trying to peer into the wind, rain and freezing cold. That’s one thing I won’t miss – the newer ones are all enclosed.

“MV Finlaggan on the Islay run has more power in one engine than Hebridean Isles has in the entire ship. Everything has moved on massively and the capabilities of the new ships will improve the service.”

The crew of the ship's final voyage. — The crew of the ship’s final voyage.

With four vessels under construction in Turkey and two at Ferguson’s yard in Port Glasgow, it’s a time of great change for CalMac.

Fleet Management Director Craig Ramsay said: “This marks the latest step in a period of significant change for CalMac, which will see the rapid modernisation of our fleet of major vessels by 2026.”

Kevin Hobbs, Chief Executive of CMAL, who own the vessels, added: “Our plan to bring six new major vessels to the network by the end of 2025 is well underway, and with two of them headed for the Islay route, it’s time to retire the Hebridean Isles.”

CalMac last week published their revised winter deployment plan for large vessels with regular Arran ferry MV Caledonian Isles out of action since February and not expected to return until March.

The much-delayed MV Glen Sannox, being built at the Ferguson shipyard, was handed over this week seven years after its launch and is likely to enter service in January. Sister ship MV Glen Rosa is due for completion next September.

Fond memories

Many former passengers and crew members shared their memories of special moments on board as they bid farewell.

Former catering crew member Mairi Ann Macdonald met her husband, Neil, on board.

She said: “It was also on MV Hebridean Isles where Neil proposed to me, asking for my hand in marriage, so we got engaged on the route from Uig to Harris.

“We also travelled on her when going across to Harris to get married, and when our children came along, we would travel back and forth for holidays to Harris and Uist. The girls absolutely loved this for many years.

“Two generations of my family worked on the same boat and absolutely loved working on her. The precious memories will stay in our lives and hearts.

“My husband and I took a trip down memory lane recently, as we heard that Hebridean Isles was going to be coming out of service, which brought a tear to our eyes.

“It was a very emotional trip, but I was delighted we got to do this for the very last time- a lot of reminiscing was done on the journey.”

John Angus McDonald, who worked on the Hebridean Isles for 24 years as a Senior Catering Rating said that it is the end of an era. He added: “She’s a well-built vessel and I have very fond memories of her. I’m very sorry to see her go, and the crew will be too.”