Travel: History, culture and fine wine on a Rhine River cruise

Finding the perfect travelling companion isn’t always easy, but Fiona has similar interests, and we’ve been friends for 40 years. An author and artist, she lives in Glasgow, while I’m in London and Fife, so I don’t see her nearly as much as I’d like. We plan to sketch the towns and cities along our journey.

It’s Sunday morning, the sky is azure blue, swans glide by and church bells peel as our river cruise ship, Viking Sigrun, glides down the Middle Rhine. Charismatic cruise director, Marian Fatsik provides commentary while 28 fairytale castles atop hillsides give a glimpse into bygone times. It’s breathtakingly beautiful. At Rudesheim we disembark to enjoy the well-preserved Marksburg Castle. We pass the Lorelei Rock as the eerie melody of the mermaid plays over the Tannoy.

We’re in wine country and manicured vineyards cling to steep inclines. The Romans recognised that the soil and micro-climate were favourable for grape cultivation and Riesling is the most widespread variety. At dinner we enjoy crisp, dry wines, and the wine list is an oenophile’s dream.

Koblenz is a medieval town, which boasts a cable car ride over the river to the historic Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. The old town has a pretty square where we order coffees and sketch until it’s time to return to Viking Sigrun for dinner and a concert by The Koblenz String Quartet.

Culturally and historically the Rhine is one of the greatest rivers in Europe. No other river has so many illustrious cities nestling on its banks – Basel, Strasbourg, and Cologne to name but a few. Since Roman times it has been one of the leading routes for trade. Around 765 miles long, the river wends its way from the Swiss Alps through Germany, France and the Netherlands into the North Sea.

From the moment we set foot on Viking Sigrun, and are welcomed by Daniel Crison, hotel manager, we feel pampered. Housekeeper Redo makes sure we have everything we need in our Scandi-chic stateroom, which has plenty of storage. French windows mean we can watch the river go by, or let in a breeze.

The ship is compact, and hopping on and off is easy, as often we are docked within walking distance of town centres.

The excellent Kunstmuseum, in Basel, is a gallery displaying a vast collection of work by celebrated artists. Basel’s beautiful houses with shuttered windows are a tasteful indication of wealth. Dates inscribed on buildings indicate when they were built. Harmonious piano notes of Somewhere Over The Rainbow drift across a sleepy square near the ornate cathedral.

We’re on a walking tour and our guide points out the Hotel des Trois Rois, one of the town’s oldest lodgings. Illustrious guests have included Charles Dickens, Queen Elizabeth 11, Pablo Picasso and The Rolling Stones. Mick Jagger made headlines when he leapt naked from the hotel’s balcony and plunged into the river below.

The tour ends at the stunning 500-year-old town hall, painted scarlet and adorned with extravagant frescoes. Talented Chef Rado’s menus reflect local cuisine, and waiters Vic and Norman make sure our wine glasses are topped up. Every night Rado’s before-dinner talks amuse and get our taste buds going.

New friendships are forged around the tables, and in the lounge we’re entertained by pianist Julius and program director Marian Fatsik, whose singing captivates us all.

At Breisach we go for a guided hike in the Black Forest’s Ravenna Gorge. Here a mountain river tumbles its way over rocks. Narrow wooden bridges and steps lead us past spectacular waterfalls to a historical mill, and soon we are surrounded by glorious meadows filled with buttercups. You can also visit a cuckoo clock factory, and sample the famous Black Forest Gateau.

© Getty Images/Westend61

We love that we wake up somewhere different every day. Strasbourg, the seat of the European Parliament, has hopped between French and German territory throughout history and both influences are evident. Home to a colony of storks nesting high up in the trees, it’s known as The Avian City. The pretty cobbled streets of Petit France, an island, lead us to the Gothic cathedral which features an astronomical clock and a magnificent spire with views of the Rhine. In the afternoon, we sit at a riverside cafe and sketch – and absorb the atmosphere.

Cologne boasts a spectacular Gothic Cathedral, with beautiful stained glass windows and mosaic floors. The exterior is intricately carved, and took 600 years to build. Miraculously, it escaped being bombed in the Second World War while surrounding buildings were destroyed. Museums include the Ludwig Museum of Pop Art, The Fragrance Museum (the history of Eau de Cologne) and The Chocolate Museum which, unsurprisingly, is the most popular. There’s no scrimping on chocolate samples to try on the factory tour.

At Kinderdjiik, in The Netherlands, we cycle on ebikes to a 17th-Century windmill whose interior has been beautiful furnished as a museum. Adorned with Delft pottery, beautiful lamps and wooden clogs lined up, it offers a glimpse of mill life in times gone by. It’s a perfect ending but we are so sad to leave and will treasure our memories forever.

Fiona and I made great memories on this exceptional cruise, and are sad to leave our new friends – Kent and Liz from Phoenix, Arizona; Erin and husband Jamie with mum and dad Judy and Tim from Cleveland, Ohio; and university student Daniel, with his grandma Judy, mum Eileen and dad Matt, from New York. But it’s Auf Wiedersehen and not goodbye – as after a few of the delicious cocktails in the bar, we invited everyone to Scotland.

P.S. Some top tips for your Rhine cruise include: Take Euros for coffees and souvenirs in town. Budget for excursions not included in total cost. Comfortable trainers or walking boots are a must.

Factfile

Viking Rhine Cruise is seven nights with six guided tours included, prices include return flights from select UK airports and start from from £1995 per person for a March 2025 sailing, based on current availability. To make a booking please call 0800 319 66 60 or visit www.viking.com.