Restaurant review: Hooligan, Lynedoch St, Glasgow

Location

Hooligan in Glasgow is housed in a converted tenement flat above The Drake pub. We initially tried to enter through the adjoining residential stairwell, but soon found the right spot.

First impressions

Quiet and laid-back, the former living room now dining area (complete with high ceilings, original cornicing and restored wooden flooring) oozes cool vibes, but remains welcoming.

Service

There’s only space for a few tables, so the service feels almost like private dining. Attentive, warm and friendly, the staff were quick to provide recommendations. First class.

Like most trendy eateries these days, Hooligan’s menu is designed for sharing, and focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options are available, so no one will go hungry. The extensive drinks list offers organic, natural and biodynamic wines by the glass and bottle, as well as a range of cocktails. If you’re not a wine connoisseur don’t be put off – the knowledgeable staff are on hand to help.

Taste

In one word? Wow. Between two, we shared six dishes (plus fresh focaccia) and every single plate was better than the last. We were very hungry, and opted for confit chicken leg with puy lentils (£13), courgette fritters with a mouth-watering date and tamarind sauce (£7), salt-baked Jerusalem artichoke (£7), spicy Brussels sprouts served harissa, and cod with chicken butter sauce. However, the star of the show was the cauliflower satay (£7), which had just the right amount of savoury spice. The flavours were, quite simply, better than some eateries at double the price.