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My Favourite Holiday: Irish author Ann O’Loughlin says India has her heart, but China stole her soul

Taj Mahal in sunset light (Getty Images)
Taj Mahal in sunset light (Getty Images)

IRISH writer Ann O’Loughlin has been a leading journalist and author for nearly 30 years.

She has followed bestsellers The Ballroom Café and The Judge’s Wife with her third book, The Ludlow Ladies’ Society, out now from Black & White Publishing.

It’s a heartwarming tale about grief, compassion, resilience and the importance of female friendship.

Ann lives in Co. Wicklow with her husband and two kids.


I AM torn between the magic of India and the mystery that is China.

Having travelled extensively in both countries, I think India holds my heart.

I lived in South India for a time, but I also have great memories of the north.

I never expected to be so impressed by the Taj Mahal, but every time I go back to this great monument by the Yamuna river, I am lost in its pristine beauty, the marble and precious stones dazzling in the harsh sunlight.

In fact, the Taj Mahal and a small piece of marble handed to me by a workman is the major inspiration behind my second novel, The Judge’s Wife.

But in the city of Agra there is another monument, the resting place of the Mughal emperor Akbar at Sikandra.

Set in a lush garden, it is a lot quieter than the Taj Mahal and is a beautiful place to wander, far from the madding crowds and the busy Indian streets.

Jaipur is one of my favourite cities and Amer Fort is just outside it.

We got up early one morning and drove to Amer, where our elephants were waiting. It’s a bit scary getting on an elephant, but it is incredible once you are up there.

We loved the elephant ride so much that we did it again!

India gets under your skin and just keeps calling you back, but China is also dear to me.

In Xian, you can hire bikes and cycle on top of the city walls.

It’s a lovely way to see the city. Once, I was transfixed watching a woman on her terrace whip up a feast in a wok. She even waved at me to come eat!

But the Forbidden City in Beijing, the seat of ancient China, is the one place that captured my soul.

The hall of clocks with the most beautiful embellished cloisonné, silver and gold clocks is one of my favourite sections.

I was lucky enough to be there in late autumn once, when there were few crowds.

In fact, it was so quiet I nearly got locked in and was the last to leave.

I don’t think I would have liked to stay overnight with the spirits of ancient China!