Tranquillity and fine food on the open waters of the Inner Hebrides

Our writer had an incredible sailing trip around the Inner Hebrides.

The water gurgles softly against the hull of our sailboat, a steady tinkle from the bilge pump masked by the rhythmic clink-clink from rigging stirred by the gently swell.

It is 11pm, the sun has just dipped below the horizon, and the sea off this tiny, remote island in the Inner Hebrides has slackened to a slow roll. We are utterly, fantastically, alone.

We have dropped anchor at the Treshnish Isles, an archipelago of small islands off Mull that draws visitors from all over the world attracted to its colony of curious-looking puffins.

But, right now, as the stars blink into life above our heads and long after the last day tripper has puttered off on one of the many tour boats, we are left in peace to enjoy this still-unspoilt part of Scotland.

Earlier we had powered through the Sound of Mull from colourful Tobermory, where we spent the first night on our boat, Steady, after boarding in Oban on a blisteringly sunny day.

Steady’s owners, Jan-Willem and Mariëlle Kerkmeer, give us a tour of their beautiful ship, a large white, black and green steel yacht that can host up to eight guests.

Jan-Willem and Mariëlle are a Dutch couple with a rich sailing history who for the last number of seasons have taken Steady to Scotland’s stunning waterways, bringing their wealth of nautical expertise with them.

Steady at anchor off Lunga, Treshnish Isles.

Our berths feature comfortable bunk beds and little portholes where we can enjoy the views of the islands rocking in and out of view as we sail. There is also a spacious seating area beside the high-tech navigation equipment near the top of the boat, a large galley and further dining area for dinner and breakfast as well as a great shower and bathroom area.

I am on this trip – which I booked through adventure sailing provider VentureSail – as a solo traveller and I am delighted to find the company of my fellow guests to be excellent.

I am joined by English couple Doug and Carolyn, Alison who lives near Dunoon and another Dutch sailing enthusiast, Anton. I am also thoroughly won over by Jan-Willem and Mariëlle’s company. They are fun and entertaining, knowledgeable and easy-going.

They explain that this trip is for us to enjoy, so we can do as much or as little crew work as we please. That means we can get hands on with the ropes and sails or sit back and scan the water for sea life. Most of us choose the latter and we are rewarded with the sight of seals, porpoise and a thrilling moment where common dolphins perform a zig-zag dance below Steady’s bow.

After our tranquil night off the Treshnish Isles, Alison and I follow Jan-Willem and Mariëlle’s lead and, in our best swim wear, climb down the metal ladders on the side of Steady. We brace ourselves and dunk in for some early-morning cold water therapy. It is so invigorating and has me fantasising of a life where this is my morning routine. What it also does is put me in the mood for breakfast.

Here, again, is another welcome surprise. The food is fantastic. I fully expected filling but basic fare, but Mariëlle creates restaurant-standard cooking for every meal. It is no exaggeration to say that if she ever fancies coming back to dry land, she should open her own restaurant.

Next we sail across the deep-blue waters to Staffa, where Jan-Willem expertly manoeuvres his skiff into the famous Fingal’s Cave. Inside the cave and surrounded by the cathedral-like basalt columns, it is not hard to understand why so many tourists make the pilgrimage here every year.

From there, we make for Iona’s white sand beaches, where we spend the most relaxing afternoon in the sunshine exploring its peaceful abbey and sipping coffee as we look out on the aquamarine seascape.

That evening we set sail again, skirting around the south side of Mull. With the sun beginning to set, Jan-Willem skilfully navigates Steady through Tinker’s Hole, a beautiful chicane of rocks and deep water where a few other yachts are moored for the evening. Sadly, there is no space for Steady, so we sail on and find a perfect anchorage off one of Mull’s many hidden golden beaches.

There, as the sun sets, we watch the golden-orange sunlight trace the tops of the basalt coastline before it dives over the horizon, leaving us alone once more in the bluey-purple twilight, with only the occasional honking of a sea bird to punctuate the silence. I almost don’t want to spoil the surprise of how great this holiday is. So I will add just one last message. Book this trip. Book it now. You can thank me later.

P.S. VentureSail have the largest charter fleet in the UK, offering adventure sailing holidays around the globe. The VentureSail website now provides over 400 sailing holidays across the world. The firm provides skippered sailing holidays on board traditional boats and, best of all, no experience is necessary.

Factfile

Sailing holiday specialist VentureSail Holidays offers four-day all-inclusive island-hopping trips on Steady around the West Coast of Scotland from £780 per person for a single berth in a twin cabin or £1,170 for single occupancy of a twin cabin. Price includes breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and hot drinks plus one glass of wine with dinner. All cabins are private with towels and bedding provided. For more information visit www.venturesailholidays.com