Travel: No valley too deep or mountain too high at Les Arcs

“If you look here you can see a deer passed through, but the snow has melted,” says Jessica Chelaouchi to my children who are peering at what, until a few minutes ago, were some oddly shaped holes in the snow.

“Here! Deep down the shape of the hoof is intact!”

We’ve been snowshoeing in the French Alps for around 15 minutes. At some point in recent weeks a doe had jumped down the hill, crossed the path we are on and continued on its way into the forests of the Tarentaise Valley.

“I have found tracks of deer above the tree line, even in January!” says Chelaouchi, a qualified Alpine mountain guide who, armed with a Thermos of chai tea and some crystallised ginger treats for the kids, has led our family into the wilderness near the French ski resort of Les Arcs.

According to Chelaouchi, as long as there is snow on the ground, it seems that property privacy rights are null and void in France – due to laws that are designed to allow people to take shelter from the elements during the winter months. This means that vast tracts of land are legally open for a bit of winter traipsing around.

Over the course of the morning we find fox and boar tracks, the tiny prints of a bird and those of a common squirrel, while Chelaouchi gives us an education on how animals live in the mountains in winter.

© Supplied by Tim Clark

“They jump from bush to bush in the winter,” Jessica says about the squirrels, “as they are brown against the white snow and don’t want to be seen and eaten.”

One quintessential aspect of skiing is speed. From finding the fastest ski lift up a mountain to whizzing down the slopes, the adrenalin rush is hard to replicate. However, traversing down a ski slope leaves little time to contemplate the mountains.

Snowshoeing in the forests of the French Alps provides just that chance. It involves patience, a keen eye and, at times, sitting on your bum and sliding down a mountain. An activity particularly popular with kids.

I had travelled with my family to Les Arcs for two reasons: The first was to find a resort that could help the family move on with their skiing and the second was to stay somewhere that offered alternatives to skiing.

Picking the right ski resort for fledgling skiers, or those who are not all at the same level, isn’t an easy task. Ski maps can be misleading and even slopes marked as blues can be daunting in parts. Even in Avoriaz, a perfect family-friendly resort, it can be hard to find the right kinds of slopes for those looking to progress from the easy greens on to moderate blues.

“I often say to husbands once I finish the lesson, ‘Please don’t mess up the work that I’ve done’,” says Sian McLoughlin, with a chuckle. Sian has lived in the Tarentaise Valley for more than a decade and, as a fully qualified BASI instructor, provides lessons for all ages in Les Arcs.

© Supplied

We’d picked Sian as a ski instructor for a morning lesson for my wife, as she was particularly suited to helping skiers who can be nervous about moving onto more difficult slopes.

“So many people come out in groups and have varying ski levels,” she says. “Often people are taken down a red or a black run and it crushes a skier’s confidence.”

Les Arcs managed to solve our ski conundrum by providing opportunities for everyone. Family members who were still learning the ropes could spend time cruising down forestry blues to the west of the resort towards Vallandry. The more experienced skiers could nip up over the ridgeline to try the reds and blacks down from the 3,226m summit Aiguille Rouge.

The plan worked. After a day or two practising, the family was ready to take more adventurous routes. Almost everywhere the summit of Mont Blanc stares down at you from across the Tarentaise valley, occasionally shrouded in a wisp of cloud before reappearing again.

Basing ourselves at a Pierre & Vacances apartment next to the slopes at Arc 1800 meant that, after a skiing day, the kids could take a dip in the pool and the other half could head to the steam room or sauna.

The mountains have all the usual paraphernalia – picnic spots, mountain restaurants and cafes – however Les Arcs has differentiated itself by also dotting cultural attractions across the mountainside.

By transforming a ski gondola garage at the bottom of the Varet Lift into a 3D art space with illuminated murals and a sound and light show, it provided respite from skiing for an eight-year-old to dance her way across a giant alpine meadow. The space allows people to shelter if the snow comes down.

© Supplied by Tim Clark

Similarly, as the weather began to close in at the top of the Vallandry lift we headed into a free-to-enter museum dedicated to the flora and fauna of the Vanoise National Park.

The issue became picking what to do. Another ski run, or the luge with its rainbow tunnel? The mineral gallery, or the film festival? The list went on. Les Arcs offers something rare: an invitation to rediscover the mountains on our own terms.

P.S. Les Arcs, named after the local stream ‘l’arc,’ meaning ‘water’ in the regional dialect, reflects its rich Alpine heritage. Beyond skiing and snowshoeing, you can experience thrilling dog sledding, explore a 3D art space, visit a wildlife museum, race down the luge, or unwind in a sauna.

With family-friendly slopes for skiing and other activities like ice skating, paragliding, cultural exhibitions and scenic mountain hikes, Les Arcs offers something for everyone. For those seeking relaxation, indulge in a spa day or dine in cosy mountain restaurants. The diverse mix of adventure, culture, and relaxation makes it a perfect year-round destination for families and nature lovers alike.