Sitting atop the famous sightseeing open-top bus that snakes through the city, as I wear my sunglasses, I could have been anywhere in the world. Yet, I was in my hometown of Glasgow, seeing Scotland’s largest city through a tourist’s eyes.
I have boarded the striking red and yellow double-decker City Sightseeing bus in Palma, Barcelona, Dubai, London, and Liverpool, but never here. And it was a rare treat, especially as the sun was splitting the sky when I hopped on at the Red Route stop (there is also a Yellow Route) outside the iconic Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum.
On my whistle-stop tour of Glasgow, I learned so many things I never knew about the amazing city where I grew up, such as: The Pavilion Theatre had a retractable roof because so many people smoked in the 1920s; the longest bus journey in Scotland is Glasgow to Uig, it departs from Buchanan Bus Station and takes almost eight hours; and Saint Mungo was Saint Enoch’s brother!
Another Glasgow ‘bucket list’ item, besides the 22-stop City Sightseeing tour, is a stay at the fabulous four-star One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin (affectionately known simply as ODG, to its regulars).
Because it’s a favourite haunt of A-list stars – I am reliably informed Mick Jagger and The ‘Stones’ have stayed in its Wolf Blass suite – many Glaswegians assume this iconic hotel and restaurant will be overpriced. However, on my visit, I was delighted to learn that its three-AA Rosette restaurant (called The Restaurant) has introduced an affordable three-course lunch menu with champagne for £44.95. It included a pre-starter, or amuse bouche, too, so technically, it’s four courses!
However, I was tempted by the five-course tasting menu, designed and prepared by its new chef Martin Thliveros, accompanied by The Devonshire wine pairing, for an additional cost. It was interesting to learn that Martin used to work at ODG before his stints at Cameron House and The Blythswood Hotel, before returning, this summer, to one of the “top destinations for dining in Glasgow”.
© Tim WinterOver the years, One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin has expanded. House No. 4 was purchased in 2016, allowing the hotel to connect all five of its townhouses on Glasgow’s leafy Devonshire Gardens by interlinking corridors. I checked into the Graham Beck, a very spacious bedroom decorated in golds, lime greens and earthy tones, complete with dining area at the bay window, lounge area and two comfy twin beds. L’Occitane products in the bathroom were another highlight.
Downstairs in The Restaurant, we took our seats at the fireplace. The dimly-lit surroundings added to the ambience and relaxed, yet very special, feel of the dining experience. Now, unlike most tasting menus from other chefs, Martin Thliveros invites diners to make their own selection. We opted for two starters, two mains and a dessert from the a la carte menu. As we awaited all five courses, we sipped on a glass of champagne as a fennel gazpacho pre-starter arrived. Then one-by-one my favourite dishes arrived, including hand-dive scallop, haggis en croûte, caramelised onion and truffle tart, duck breast and chocolate parfait!
The wine flight had been paired by ODG’s wine ambassador Oksy. You don’t just receive popular wines only available ‘by the glass’? That’s because of a unique extraction technique that decants wine from expensive corked bottles, without removing the cork! Oksy demonstrated the ‘coravin’, a welcomed bit of theatre at our table. And if you like a bit of theatre, be sure to ask for the cheese trolley or the Beef Wellington, which will be carved before you, something that chef Martin recently introduced.
After our five courses – and five 125ml glasses of wine – it was time to relax in the bar, where we met Oksy once again, and she rustled up a couple of cocktails before bed. I slept so well.
After a cool rainfall shower in the traditionally-styled bathroom, I went downstairs for a late breakfast. The Restaurant had been transformed for breakfast, with a huge, cold buffet spread, while full breakfast and salmon bagel with cream cheese were also available to order. Quite honestly, one night was not long enough, but I shall be back – especially for the three-course champagne lunch!
Seeing it through a tourist’s eyes, has reinforced my belief that Glasgow is the must-visit Scottish city. It’s guaranteed to provide a unique experience.
Factfile
To book at table at The Restaurant at One Devonshire Gardens: www.hotelduvin.com/locations/glasgow/the-restaurant/ To book a room at One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin: www.hotelduvin.com
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