Our spoiled-rotten dog is used to life’s little luxuries, but this was above and beyond even what Cooper had come to expect.
There he was, wrapped up in a doggy dressing gown, having just had a shower in a canine washroom after a day of exploring Ambleside’s muddy walks. He had been clapped and cuddled by the attentive staff – who furnished him with a never-ending supply of treats – and now he was contentedly lying at our feet as my partner and I relaxed in the drawing room with drinks and a board game.
We were spending a couple of stress-free nights at Rothay Manor, a boutique Lake District hotel that has received local and international awards – from Cumbria Tourism to Conde Nast. The Grade II-listed building, with its black and white Regency facade, stands out from the usual grey slate landscape of the area.
We stayed in the Pavilion Garden suites, a new block of eight dog-friendly rooms just a few steps from the main building. With a decadently designed bathroom, an incredibly comfy bed, and our own courtyard with a hot tub, this was luxurious but with a friendly and inviting country living style.
With the hot tub bubbling away, bubbles in our glasses, and a gentle smirr falling on a mild September night, it would have been easy to spend all evening there, but dinner was awaiting us. More often than not in dog-friendly hotels, the dining room for those with canine companions is a step down from the main eating area, but not at Rothay Manor. With pup-influenced decor and ornate cornicing, we were able to enjoy our fine-dining experience in suitably grand surroundings. From the warmed, homemade bread to the mushroom gnocchi and pearl barley risotto, our meals tasted just as good as the beautifully presented dishes looked.
The next day we took the short walk into Ambleside’s main thoroughfare, which has bucked the trend of struggling town centres thanks to a winning blend of interesting independent stores, high street brands and an array of bustling cafes and restaurants. It was a Monday morning, and the dog-friendly town centre was packed. Indeed, the only downside to the experience was the struggle to make our way along the busy but narrow roadside paths.
We whiled away a few hours in Fred’s Bookshop, the National Park Print Shop and The Rattle Ghyll Deli, and refuelled at The Apple Pie Cafe & Bakery, an almost 50-year-old Ambleside institution. Following a hearty lunch, we couldn’t leave without trying the famous apple pie, and the best compliment I can pay it is to say it tasted just like the one my mum used to make.
Afterwards, we consulted the Rothay Rambles walking guide from our hotel room and made our way to Stockghyll Force, a short and fairly easy walk from the town centre that takes walkers up and around a series of short waterfalls.
Part of the Lake District’s charm is driving through the historic villages and towns, and we were keen to visit one or two we’d whizzed through on our way to Rothay Manor the day before. Short on time, we made the brief drive to Grasmere, foregoing the recommended walk along the “coffin route” – so called because they used to carry the dead from Ambleside to the grounds of St Oswald’s Church.
Taking a stroll in the churchyard and past William Wordsworth’s grave, we spotted a queue of people snaking by the entrance to the daffodil garden bearing the poet’s name and went to investigate. Housed in the old village school where Wordsworth once taught is Sarah Nelson’s Grasmere Gingerbread Shop. Invented in 1854, the spicy treat – not quite a biscuit but not quite a cake – can only be bought from the tiny Grasmere shop, a new sister cafe in nearby Hawkshead, and its online store.
As detected by the many languages we heard from those waiting in the queue, word about Sarah’s culinary skills has spread far and wide. With our fear of missing out activated, we joined those waiting. Inside, workers adorned in Victorian clothing staffed a teeming shop counter. It was like stepping into a living museum – and that smell! The hype was justified – Sarah Nelson is a genius.
While a trip to the Lake District is no longer a requirement to pick up some of Miss Nelson’s finest, thanks to her online store, it would be a shame to miss out on a relaxing few nights at Rothay Manor – for you and your four-legged pal.
Factfile
Stay from £240 per night, B&B Winter warmer special offer: Save 15% on dinner, bed and breakfast stays. Available until December 22, 2024. *T&C’s apply. rothaymanor.co.uk
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