Food and comfort at boutique East Lothian hideaway The Leddie

The sands of Aberlady Bay are right on the doorstep for guests at The Leddie.

Inside one of East Lothian’s newest boutique hotels, you might expect that it is the accommodation driving the roaring dinner service downstairs.

Things are so busy at The Leddie in Aberlady that the dining area is often extended out into the bar and lounge to accommodate the large number of patrons keen to try its excellent – and surprisingly fairly priced – restaurant.

The hotel only started welcoming its first guests in July last year but clearly word has travelled fast among locals, with the venue already taking its place among the best new dinner spots along the neighbouring coastline.

But with the restaurant area packed downstairs and rooms so recently renovated that they still have the faint smell of new carpet and fresh paint, The Leddie simultaneously has the feeling of an undiscovered gem and the hottest ticket in town.

Despite the rush during dinner service, at night the hotel itself feels much less inhabited – so much so that we wondered if we were the only guests. And during the final hour of breakfast, we were the only ones ordering in the spacious dining area.

Locals who have spent years crying out for a quality new restaurant to open in the village have had their prayers answered but there is so much more to discover.

The hotel – whose new name is a nod to the burn that runs through Aberlady – is the rebirth of the Duck’s Inn, an iconic venue run by the eponymous Malcolm and Fiona Duck for nearly two decades.

For years it served as a well-known haunt for those looking to tee off early at one of the fabulous nearby courses in Gullane, Kilspindie and Craigielaw, just a few of many along the “golf coast”.

The property was bought in September 2023 by Northern Irish private investment firm Wirefox, which also owns the Bushmills Inn near Royal Portrush and Ardgowan Hotel in St Andrews, and it was quick to make big changes.

In came Robert Clark, previously of The Scran & Scallie in Edinburgh and the Bonnie Badger in Gullane, as general manager of its 27 bedrooms, bar and 70-cover restaurant. Shaun Lund, formerly of Ballathie House Hotel and Crieff Hydro, is now the head chef. His food hits the sweet spot between gastropub and smart bistro.

Some of the delicious food on offer in the kitchen.

During our visit, the Shetland mussels in a garlic and white wine sauce was the biggest hit with diners – and deservedly so.

Many of the other menu items are locally sourced, with management keen to work with farmers and producers across East Lothian.

The haggis bon bons with peppercorn sauce, provided by John Gilmour Butchers from along the road in Tranent, were exceptional, as were the rest of the meats provided for the kitchen’s “seared over flames” section.

Guests can enjoy fine dishes from head chef Shaun Lund.

The oldest parts of The Leddie date back to the 17th Century, with an archway to the right of the front entrance leading to the car park that is so narrow you can imagine generations of horse-drawn coaches struggling to squeeze through.

Thankfully we just about made it without too much hassle but those booking in should be aware there is limited parking available – something that may be a bigger problem as rooms and tables become more in demand during the summer months.

Downstairs is open plan with the reception and lounge areas flowing into a stylish bar and dining room.

The lounge is decorated with leather sofas, armchairs and bookcases next to a cosy open fire. French windows open out into a sheltered courtyard which has access to other areas of the hotel.

The Leddie has two large cottage suites located in a separate outbuilding at the back of the property. The remaining 25 rooms are in the main house.

Our room, a junior suite on the first floor, had large windows overlooking the courtyard. Its furnishings were sage green and dark wood with brass finishings. Classy, modern and understated. The room was spacious and had plenty of storage, and the king-size bed was exceptionally comfortable. The bathroom, lined with sea-green tiles, was immaculate and had a lovely pressure shower but no bath.

Aberlady is less than an hour in the car from Edinburgh city centre and just a short drive from North Berwick, another popular east-coast destination.

It may not have as many interesting shops and cafes as North Berwick but Aberlady is exceptionally pretty and much quieter – the perfect place to unwind after a busy day shopping in the city centre.

Gullane Bents, ranked the Times and Sunday Times best Scottish beach in 2024, is a five-minute drive away, while Aberlady Bay is just a few minutes on foot from The Leddie’s front door.

There is no doubt The Leddie will remain popular as a perfect place to take in an evening meal, but those rushing out the door after dinner should stop to take another look.

The Duck may have flown Aberlady but The Leddie is the perfect cosy nest for a night or two on Scotland’s beautiful east coast.

P.S. Aberlady was once Scotland’s main whaling port, with its bay now a protected nature reserve. At low tide, you can spot the skeletal remains of two Second World War midget submarines resting in the sand, an eerie yet fascinating relic of wartime naval training. Nearby, Gosford House was used in 1940 as a military camp for troops including the King’s Own Scottish Borderers.

For more details visit theleddie.com