I’M eagerly queuing up at the Coastal Cuppie, a shabby chic shack adorned with flowers, pot plants and a couple of pretty seats.
Painted in hues that reflect the sea and sky, it sits on the harbour of the historic fishing village of Pennan.
This place was made famous in 1983 by Local Hero, Bill Forsyth’s BAFTA award-winning film starring Denis Lawson, Fulton Mackay and Burt Lancaster.
Thirty-four years on the village, and its iconic red phone box made famous by the film, are still reeling in the tourists.
But this year they are more interested in another “wee box”, hooked by the charm and the homemade driftwood crafts that dangle from Coastal Cuppie’s shutters.
Tourists seem delighted with the wee sheddie that serves lovely scones – mostly of the plain, cheese or fruit variety – along with hot and cold beverages, and a string of other sweet treats such as Peter’s ice creams from nearby Cairnbulg and Grandad Bob’s Bannocks – made by co-owner Pauline’s dad.
Ahead of me in the queue, one international visitor looks decidedly puzzled.
She asks: “I’ve been told to ask for ‘a fly’. What is this, please?”
Reining in the urge to tell her that winged insects are a Scottish staple, I decide to fess-up and explain that it’s simply Doric for a cup of tea.
I also urge her to try “a fancy piece” (a bit of cake.)
There then follows a discussion on local linguistics, everything from “Foos yer doos” (How are you?) to “Fit fit fits fit fit?” (Which foot fits which foot?), loons, quines and cushie doos (boys, girls, and pigeons).
Pretty soon it’s my turn to place our order and take a seat under the Red Head – a red sandstone cliff that looms above us.
Overhead, seagulls swoop and soar. But I keep my eyes trained on the sea, hoping to spot the Moray Firth dolphins that make regular appearances here, and perhaps even some minke whales.
My vigil is interrupted by the smiling Shona – who runs the business with Pauline.
She serves up a tea, a coffee, a hot chocolate, and a round of scones (and one of Grandad Bob’s bannocks) for my party – scrumptious!
I read the guest book as we gorge on our goodies and aren’t surprised by the praise heaped on this super shack by visitors from as far afield as Shetland, France and Australia.
There is something quite heroic in local enterprise.
Shona tells me: “We built, painted and decorated the hut ourselves. And we collect the driftwood from the beach to make the crafts.
“We’re living the dream, working in a place like this. We meet so many lovely people.”
I have to agree as a Finnish visitor waves us goodbye with a “Ca canny”.
Verdict
Warm Welcome 9/10 Location, Location 9/10 Scone Score 8/10
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