IT’S a dreich day and I’m nursing the mother of all colds.
I’m mooching around, feeling sorry for myself when visiting friends – on holiday from London – suggest that stepping out for cuppies, cakes and Scottish fresh air, might cure my mumping!
With a sniff, I decide to martyr myself to the cause and we take a drive to the picture postcard Royal Burgh of Cullen.
This lovely old town on the Banffshire coast is a mecca for tourists and day-trippers, not least because of the towering railway viaduct that straddles the main road while its arches dramatically frame a spectacular seascape beyond.
The Londoners are immediately blown away by the vista. But there’s better to come.
Clutching my hankie and with the thought of a scone in mind, my spirits are lifted.
We head to the Rockpool Café, a pretty glass-fronted eatery on a corner in the bustling town square and a stone’s throw from the viaduct.
Inside the café there’s a seaside vibe, with gifts hand-made from driftwood and other artistic gems for sale.
We have to wait a few minutes for a seat because the place is packed. Clearly this is a hot spot for locals as well as tourists.
We’re met by cheery waitresses, Marie and Kelly, who tell us the Rockpool’s use of fresh, local produce – on sandwiches and paninis, and in stovies and soups – really does set it apart round here.
And though we’re here to track down beautiful bakes, we’re in the home of the legendary fish soup Cullen Skink. So we have to try it!
Three bowls arrive in minutes, along with a fine wedge of homemade granary bread.
The delicious, deep and steaming bowls are crammed-full of thick and flaky haddock, chunks of floury potato, onion, parsley and a good dose of cream. We are unanimous: this is lip-smackin’ good.
We are stuffed and can barely finish the generous portions.
But nothing, even streaming eyes, coughs and snuffles, stands in the way of a scone mission.
Rockpool owner Steve and his partner, Carrie, gave up careers in nursing to the open the café in 2011. And he bakes the plain, cheese or fruit scones, fresh, each day himself.
Punters can have them warm or cold, with butter and jam, or during the summer season with clotted cream and strawberries supplied by Barra Berries in Oldmeldrum.
I opt for a warm fruit scone with piles of butter. It is soft, moist and seriously tasty. My guests agree the cheese and plain are just as good.
They are still “oohing” and “aahing” their appreciation as we head back to the car.
With the cold fed and a smile on my face I’m fit for some sightseeing. This restaurant is clearly just what the doctor – or nurse – ordered!
Warm Welcome 9/10
Location, Location 9/10
Scone Score 9/10
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