Scone Spy takes a wander along Aberdeen's seafront to The Pier cafe

BEFORE us is the expanse of the North Sea, a dozen big ships bobbing at anchor, waiting for entry to one of the UK’s busiest ports.

Behind us is all the fun of the fair – Codona’s of Aberdeen. But we’re not here to boat-watch, or for a white-knuckle ride on the rollercoaster with its two giant drops, corkscrew bend and 360-degree loop.

We’re here for scones. The Pier café, smack bang on the beach esplanade, is just steps from the Granite City’s breathtaking golden sands which stretch between the harbour and the mouth of the River Don. And today, after working up an appetite with a beach walk, it is our eatery of choice.

We could dine al fresco at one of the lovely tables overlooking the sea. But although bright, the day is blustery so we go inside.

Stepping over the threshold, we see everything is shipshape at the Pier.

The airy interior is modern and the décor nods to the nautical with rustic wooden floors, walls in shades of sea green and the occasional ship’s wheel and anchor.

This place makes a great breakfast or brunch, along with lunch and evening meals, and it’s licensed.

But it is best known for its pancake stacks – bacon and maple syrup and pulled pork and fried egg. There are vegetarian alternatives, too, of fresh fruit and maple syrup or Nutella and banana.

Our waiter gives us a warm welcome, points us to the menu and to the counter top display of delicious home bakes.

We’re hoping for a full line-up of scones and are keen to know the varieties on offer. But his face falls as he explains that there are only plain left.

Had we known that particular boat was going to sail we would have altered course and arrived at the café earlier in the day.

We’ve been told they bake their own delicious cheese and fruit varieties.

Not to be deterred, we opt for two plain scones with butter and jam, and a pot of tea.

The place is buzzing with an eclectic clientele. On the neighbouring table business execs are holding an informal meeting while tucking into handmade Sailor Jerry glazed steak burgers in brioche buns.

At the counter, a gaggle of kids is impatiently waiting for Rainbow Whippy ice creams while snuggled on to a corner banquet close to us a fortysomething woman lovingly cradles a newborn babe in her arms. Beaming us a smile she reveals conspiratorially: “She’s my daughter’s. My first grandchild. I couldn’t be more delighted.”

Neither could we.

The atmosphere is warm, friendly and addictive. As are the scones, which arrive quickly.

They may be of the plain variety, but they are melt-in-the mouth delicious. Not too sweet, they have just the right degree of outer crunch and are soft and crumbly on the inside.