Travel: Life-affirming summer on the slopes in Switzerland

“I’m going to jump in, daddy.” My youngest daughter, Freyja, stares at the diving board that stretches eight feet above the powder-blue water of the pool.

I eye her nervously. I’m not sure I would attempt it. But she is six, she is young and fearless. I take the safer option of the metal steps. The water is cool and refreshing in the heat of the midday sun.

I watch as she climbs the ladder, strides forward and jumps without a hint of hesitation.

So far so normal for a family holiday in the sun. Except, this is anything but normal.

For we are not in a crowded hotel pool in Spain and the backdrop here is not identikit rows of apartment blocks. Instead, as I watch Freyja tiptoe across the poolside for another jump, my eye is drawn to a paraglider sailing in front of forested Alpine hills and rich green mountain pastures.

We are in Verbier, the jewel in the crown of Switzerland’s famous 4 Vallées ski area, for a family holiday. And, courtesy of staying at one of the many hotels in Verbier, Val de Bagnes or La Tzoumaz, we have been given four Verbier Infinite Playground Passes, meaning entry to the outdoor pool is free.

The temperature is pushing into the high 20s and we quickly dry off before taking the five-minute walk back to The Shed Hotel, a classic Alpine retreat with a pared-back modern Scandi vibe. Our room is a top floor two-bedroom apartment that gives panoramic views of forests and snow-capped peaks.

We have a packed itinerary planned in a resort more known in the UK for adrenaline-filled activities such as skiing and skydiving. Our next stop is over the mountain for a family-friendly hike in the hills of neighbouring La Tzoumaz. They say that Verbier is a city in the mountain but, as far as distances go, it is tightly packed. So we could walk the 20 minutes to the gondola, but we are in Switzerland and it seems foolish not to take advantage of their flawless transport network.

Verbier has four free shuttle bus routes that zip you from one end of the resort to the other but when we check the timetable, we realise we have just missed one. The next bus is scheduled a whole three minutes later and, just like Swiss clockwork, it arrives right on time.

Thalia Furger from La Tzoumaz tourist board meets us off the gondola and shows us our options for hikes. The map is zigzagged with routes ranging from very easy to a little more adventurous. But with the sun still high in the sky, we choose the former and set off into the forest.

We meander along the trail, where paths curve among the trees and occasional breaks in the forest reveal gorgeous views across the valley. Along the way there are quizzes and sensory stations that encourage the children to learn about nature in this French-speaking part of Switzerland while at the same time expanding their French vocabulary, swapping squirrels and frogs with écureuils and grenouilles. After all the walking, we descend on Maison de la Forêt mountain snack bar for some delicious homemade food, cold drinks and more stunning views of the steep-sided hills.

One of my favourite fantasies is imagining a life away from the cold, wet UK and I spend a minute daydreaming about searching the local classifieds for jobs in Verbier.

Back to reality and back at The Shed Hotel the next day, we meet Clément Guntern from Verbier Tourism who tells us about a Swiss National Day celebration planned for later that evening.

“There will be a big party here,” he says, pointing to the front of the hotel, where people are erecting a stage, while others busily set up market stalls for the August 1 event. “There will be a band playing, food and, I think, some fireworks,” he adds.

A few hours later, the street outside has been transformed. The road is a sea of bodies, swaying to the music from the band on stage. As we inch our way through the crowds, we spot Clément. He, like the rest of Verbier, has clocked off work and is enjoying a beer with friends. It looks like such great fun, and I am sad that I can’t join in the party. Alas, my girls are dragging me off to buy candyfloss and novelty hats. Thankfully, from our room at The Shed we have the best seat in the resort, so we get comfortable on the balcony as the sun sets and the festivities, like the cogs of a mountain bike, kick up a gear. Pretty soon the night sky is filled with a chorus of fireworks. The sky has turned an ebony black and the stars seem to glitter in time to the music. Just then we notice a trail of lights sailing overhead. It takes a moment to compute what we are witnessing – a daredevil paraglider shooting fireworks into the night from beneath their (high-flammable) canopy. Even in the dead of night, it seems, Verbier’s craving for high-octane activities never ceases.

By morning, like the cool mountain air that has swept away the smells of the night before, replacing it with the scents of pine and wood smoke, the clean-up operation has breezed through, and the place is immaculate once more.

Up the street, we witness Verbier’s ability to deftly change tack as classical musicians, here for the resort’s Classical Music Festival, send out gentle tunes that will no doubt soothe any sore heads. In Verbier, adventurers, families, partygoers and high culture mix effortlessly. We are checking out of The Shed but we are not leaving the area, for our next destination is something extra special.

We take the gondola and cable car that lifts us through the air to Mont Fort, at 3,300 metres, the highest station in Les 4 Vallées. In winter, the cable car station just below the summit is filled with skiers setting off in all directions but in summer the place looks like a moon base, with its dome-shaped beer and burger restaurant camouflaged among the loose grey rock.

We wrap up in warm jackets in the chill mountain air and enjoy the 360 views at the summit, with Mont Blanc, Europe’s tallest peak, and the instantly recognisable Matterhorn visible on a clear day.

Soon we are gliding back down in the cable car. “Where are we going to stay, dad?” asks my 10-year-old, Holly. I point to the wooden hut below our feet, the cable car throwing a shadow over its wooden terrace as we pass overhead. Our last night will be spent in Cabane Mont Fort, a large wooden hut that in winter is an ideal spot for a sunny lunch on the ski slopes but in summer makes for a relaxing retreat for hikers.

We begin the gentle hike up the mountain, travelling on the barren ski slope and passing glacial streams and curious marmots, who eye our family of four with suspicion.

Back in our room after a delicious fondue dinner high on the mountain, we retreat to our four-bed cabin. Its small window opens out to the valley below and we watch the pinky-purple sunset. We are nearing the end of our stay, but I have one more activity planned.

“Wake up, kids,” I whisper. It is 1am. The girls slowly swing out of bed. We don our boots and hats and head out of the hut. It is spectacularly dark, the only lights are from the cabin itself and a small torch I am carrying. We walk a few hundred metres away from the hut and look back.

“Wow,” they say in unison at the star-filled sky, the clearly defined Milky Way yawning right above us.

“Daddy, can we live here forever?” asks Holly. I look down at her, her golden hair shining in the half light from the last remaining National Day fireworks being set off in Verbier.

“I’ll look into it.”

P.S. The Verbier climate in summer is hot and sunny in the lower valleys and pleasantly cool higher up, with averages in the low 20s C, making it ideal for families keen to avoid the searing temperatures of Greece or Spain.

Factfile

Discover all the experiences available in the destination: www.verbier.ch

VIP Passes: www.verbier.ch/vip-pass

Shed Hotel: https://shedhotels.com

Cabane Mont Fort: https://cabanemontfort.com/

Five things

Verbier and La Tzoumaz are famed for high-thrills activities like skiing, snowboarding, paragliding and downhill mountain biking but it is also a great place for families. Here, we’ve picked out five family friendly things to do with the little ones in summer.
1 Treetop adventure
Wrapped in and around the tall trees above Medran on the edge of Verbier, the Treetop Park has free-fall jumps, ziplines and aerial obstacle courses, all supervised by trained staff. The children will swing between the branches and whizz down the ziplines as the dappled sunlight filters through the branches.
Finish the day by walking the few hundred metres to Au Vieux Verbier restaurant, where a top-class lunch on the sun-drenched terrace is guaranteed to keep the whole family happy. www.verbier.ch
2 Try traditional Swiss cuisine at Le Caveau
Right in the centre of Verbier lies the renowned restaurant Le Caveau where Raclette (melted cheese over potatoes, pickled gherkins and vegetables) and classic cheese fondue are a must-try. Introduce the children to these classic dishes and they will thank you later. For the adults, combine them with some dry white wine from the restaurant’s extensive cellar. Choose a local Swiss of Savoyard wine with good acidity to cut through the fat. www.verbier.ch
3 Biking at Mountain Air
Visit Mountain Air in Medra to hire any type of bike to suit your needs, from electric mountain bikes to the more traditional pedal-powered version. Biking guide Sam from Australia can take you on a journey taking in incredible views above Verbier, riding through mountain tunnels and ending up at La Croix-de-Coeur restaurant for lunch. Try the rosti here, it is amazing. www.verbier.ch
4 Hiking in La Tzoumaz
Take the gondola to La Tzoumaz and enjoy picture postcard views of lush steep-sided hills. Learn about wildlife on one of the many family-friendly hikes and let the little ones dip their feet into the crystal clear waters of the River Fare as part of its River Challenge games. www.verbier.ch
5 Outdoor swimming
Dive into the Verbier Sports Centre’s refreshingly deep outdoor swimming pool. The children can jump in and out of the water as well as enjoy the centre’s play area. Finish the day with dinner at Les Chamois Restaurant where you can enjoy dishes such as spatchcock poussin grilled with local herbs. www.verbier.ch