Old abbey stay at The Highland Club is a little slice of heaven

Sun streams through the arched gothic windows, flooding the chapel with light. I pull my hands together, as if in prayer, and, pointing them downwards, plunge into sparking blue, the reflection of the water dancing off ancient blonde stone.

We are the only souls in this former place of worship and austerity, now a luxurious retreat on the banks of Scotland’s most iconic tourist destination – Loch Ness.

The Highland Club, in Fort Augustus, was once St Benedict’s Abbey, and its chapel – of which we have exclusive use for a precious hour – is now a pool. As my husband pads in white towelling slippers and bath robe towards the sauna, I contemplate how, unlike the monks before us, it’s the only sweat he is likely to break during our weekend stay. This place is heaven on earth.

Said to have originated as a fort in 1350, eventually becoming a castle and then a monastery in the 1800s – later elevated to abbey status, with a school – it closed in the mid-1990s with the last monks leaving in 1998. The prayers, bells, and clamour of children evaporated into the loch’s mists leaving only the sound of silence – until the Santon Group came along in 2003 and fully restored and renovated the imposing A-Listed structure, retaining its outstanding architectural details.

The great towers, cloisters, vaulted ceilings, and sweeping stone stairs remain, as do the Abbey Church, and the cavernous Atrium. Now the abbey is a sanctuary for a different kind of worshipper – those seeking not only peace, but fun and adventure.

Located on the southern tip of Loch Ness and set in 23 beautiful acres The Highland Club comprises 109 multi-award-winning, self-catering apartments and cottages.

The hotel was once home to Benedictine monks who lived there until 1998.

In the cloisters – which enclose the central courtyard garden where guests are locked in a tense game of giant chess overlooked by devilish gargoyles – I sit with a good book, champagne on ice, and listen through headphones to early music while my husband, rod in hand, heads to the river to try his luck with the trout.

If we want to be less sedentary, there’s plenty to tempt us. Aside from the Chapel Pool Complex, which also has a steam room, there’s a gym, a sports simulator, the atmospheric Highland Club lounge – with towering stained-glass windows, period panelling and pulpit – which boasts snooker and pool tables, and every board game imaginable.

Outside but onsite, there’s a tennis court, five-a-side football and woodland playground, seasonal cricket and badminton, croquet lawn and a boules/pétanque court.

The Highland Club is a stone’s throw from the pretty canal-side village of Fort Augustus and is the perfect place to explore the Great Glen and beyond. We spend our days pottering about the village shops and cafes that flank the world-renowned Caledonian Canal and watching boats navigate the lock system. The 22-mile canal, built by Thomas Telford, opened in 1822, and comprises 29 locks – five of which are in Fort Augustus.

There are some great places to eat and drink here but by far our favourite was The Boat House, just a short walk through the club grounds. As the name suggests, it straddles the water and lays claim to being the only restaurant on the loch’s south shore, affording some of the most photographable views. This independently managed restaurant is warm and welcoming and immensely popular with locals and visitors.

We enjoy an early dinner of succulent steak with pepper sauce, and all the trimmings along with a fine red wine, followed by delicious deserts and liqueur coffees.

On nearby tables a French rugby team gathers for a reunion, while a solitary hill walker, his map splayed beside an empty plate, ponders his next route, and excited families relive the adventures of that day.

There’s so much to see and do smack bang on the doorstep of The Highland Club. Loch Ness Cruises provide daily sailings to various locations along the loch, including iconic Urquhart Castle and for the more adventurous it offers trips on its super speedy power RIB. Just over a mile away is one of Scotland’s hidden gems, the Fort Augustus Golf Club, widely regarded as the most challenging nine-hole course in Scotland. And within striking distance are gorge walking, abseiling and white-water rafting.

On the eve of our reluctant departure, we relax in our sumptuous apartment, and as we gaze through gothic windows at hill and river views, we plan our return – heaven permitting.

Factfile

Prices are from £300 per night, depending on the season and apartment size. Book direct at thehighlandclub.co.uk for a 10% discount. Direct bookings contribute to the club’s charity partners.