Travel: Sea views, fine food and music on a midweek break in Crail

There is a barely a ripple in the water, even as a gentle summer breeze rocks the boats in Crail Harbour.

The shadows of the various small crafts play on the water’s surface, while the quiet creaking of wood and the soporific sloshing of sea on stone provide a mesmerising soundtrack.

No wonder it is widely regarded as one of the area’s finest seaside spots, even amid the myriad delights of Fife’s East Neuk.

We have strolled down to the harbour just minutes after checking in to the Shoregate, an 18th century building which houses one of the region’s finest restaurants and a number of small but perfectly-formed guest rooms.

Purchased by Nicholas Frost and Damon Reynolds in 2019, the venue was saved from an uncertain future – undergoing a two-year restoration and refurbishment before it reopened its doors in May 2022.

It was presumably a labour of no-little love. And it shows.

The Shoregate's beautiful individually styled rooms. — The Shoregate’s beautiful individually styled rooms.

Upon being welcomed to the property on a balmy afternoon by the enthusiastic and engaging general manager David Fussell, we are shown to Room 2 (there are a total of four). Boasting a sea view (the aforementioned picturesque harbour is just a gentle five-minute stroll away), it is a beautifully-finished and well-equipped space.

Clever use of the small entrance area means a dressing area is included, with a large ensuite featuring a luxurious over-sized shower to the right and a bedroom with cosy seating area to the right.

The inclusion of a complementary mini-bottle of Darnley’s gin, along with tonic, is a lovely touch.

Darnley’s is made in a 350l copper pot in a small cottage in the village of Kingsbarns, just a few miles from Crail – a fine example of local businesses supporting one another.

Having enjoyed a tipple following our journey, we set out to sample the sights and, after loitering at the harbour for a while, we pick our way through the beautiful winding roads and narrow alleyways before finding ourselves at The Golf Hotel.

Given it has been welcoming customers since 1721, we decided it must be doing something right and popped in for a drink.

The very traditional bar was filled with a mixture of tourists and locals, and proved a fine spot to relax for an hour before strolling back to the Shoregate, in time for dinner.

The menu is truly mouth-watering, and the “Wild Hearth” sourdough bread with whipped noisette butter and virgin rapeseed oil was enough to get us genuinely excited for what was to follow.

Suffice to say we were not disappointed – the Shoregate truly offers the finest of fine dining.

The menu is small but perfectly formed, offering something for everyone without overwhelming diners with a needlessly over-abundant or bewildering range of options. The starter of smoked ham hough fritter, with celeriac remoulade, Granny Smith and tarragon is a meltingly delightful treat, while the vegetarian option of Barnsmuir farm asparagus, with coddled hens eggs and vichyssoise was as tasty as it was imaginative.

Lamb, trout and chateaubriand (the latter offered at £87 and designed for two) were among the offered main courses. However, we were not in the least disappointed with our choices of slow roast pork belly, glazed cheek, thyme gnocchi and broad beans (me) and the confit butternut squash, roast aubergine, bulgur wheat and a red pepper velouté (my better half).

The pork was cooked to perfection and the vegetarian dish offered a delicacy of flavour and attention to detail which elevated it far beyond the norm.

A new season strawberry while chocolate mousse with coconut sable and sticky maple tart, with pecan and barley crème alongside caramelised orange provided the perfect ending to a truly sensational dining experience.

The on-site bar, adjacent to the restaurant, has been lovingly created following the discovery of various old photographs dating back a century – meaning it is true to the plans of the original layout. The result is a homely space, complete with Victorian pitch pine tongue and groove panelling, discovered behind layers of plasterboard.

The bar is busy on the night of our visit (a Wednesday) and there is also live music. Not of the over-bearing, electronic nature, rather more of a jamming session, with a few cheery locals offering traditional tunes on their fiddles and guitars between sips of ale.

It has clearly charmed one American family in the bar. After listening for a time two young female members of the family pluck up the courage to approach the musicians and ask if they can play along while the girls sing an Adele song.

The locals are only too happy to oblige. They put on a fine show and the patrons applaud loudly.

It is a fine end to a lovely evening, enjoyed in idyllic surroundings.

Suffice to say the Shoregate comes highly recommended.

P.S. The Shoregate is owned by Nicholas Frost and Damon Reynolds.

Nicholas studied in Salamanca and Bristol, before teaching English in rural Japan. In 1994, his introduction to Crail by his partner Damon sparked an enduring love for the coastal village’s charm.

Damon from Wandsworth, London, found his heart drawn to the coastal charm of Crail thanks to childhood summers spent exploring its beaches and coastal paths. In 2016, he pursued a lifelong dream by acquiring a cottage in the village.