BARRA’s war memorial stands by the roadside, overlooking Castlebay Harbour.
A sombre pillar in marble and granite, it lists the 71 men from that island and neighbouring Vatersay who lost their lives in the First World War, and the 54 who died in the Second.
The men are listed by the town, village or scattered community they came from – often four or five from even the tiniest settlements, 24 with the same painfully repeated surname.
The effect of these deaths on these communities, lost in far away wars, is unimaginable. This week Barra lost another loved one, a shocking new victim to a distant conflict.
Fourteen-year-old Eilidh Macleod died in the Manchester Arena terror attack. Her best friend Laura MacIntyre, 15, remains in hospital with severe burns and a broken leg.
Eilidh’s death and Laura’s injury at the hands of an Islamic jihadist has stunned this close-knit island.
Last night Eilidh’s great uncle, Donald Manford, said the circumstances of her death made it all the harder to accept.
“We desperately need to try to understand what makes people do this. We on Barra are an island that cares for others.
“We are comforted by the overwhelming support from all over the world. We are used to tragedy on Barra and we accept that people lose their lives at sea. But this is particularity painful and much harder to accept. We cannot organise Eilidh’s funeral until the coroner releases her remains.
“Words cannot express how utterly devastated we feel at the loss of our lovely Eilidh. Our hearts go to out to every one of the families affected so painfully by this.”
Barra is remote, a near five-hour ferry journey from the mainland and one of the westernmost islands in Europe. And it is safe. Everyone knows everyone else, and there is next to no crime. Children can be raised free of the concerns which stalk modern metropolitan parents.
Eilidh, from Castlebay, was given her ticket to see Ariana Grande, one of her favourite pop stars, as a birthday present. She and Laura, from the tiny coastal village of Leanish, were accompanied on the trip to Manchester by her mother Marion, a GP receptionist, while her father Roddy, a CalMac engineer, stayed behind with the rest of the family.
It was a trip to see not just a teen idol, but a chance for the girls to experience one of Britain’s most vibrant cities. But it became an encounter with the very worst feature of the modern world.
Local fisherman Donald Allan MacKiggan, 50, said: “We never thought it would reach us. Who could have dreamt two of our young people would become victims of terrorism?
“Our hearts go out to their families because most of us are parents but we can barely imagine what they are going through.”
Donald Allan, a former firefighter at the island airport and member of the local coastguard team, added: “We are caring people. We will do what it takes to support and care for their families.
“We have had tragedies including drownings at sea and road deaths but this is entirely new to us.
“The world has changed in the past week and we fear our children are growing up in a very different place.”
His son, who was on a school trip to Inverness, came home a day early with his class after hearing of the bombing.
“We now have to think the unthinkable and worry about our children even on Barra.
“But we know life has to go on and we cannot let the terrorists beat us in submission.
“We cannot be afraid to leave our homes or island because some ideology wants us to remain cowed or frightened.”
In the Catholic church in Castlebay, children from the local primary school are preparing for their First Holy Communion.
As they complete the lesson they light candles for Eilidh and Laura.
In the reception area of Our Lady Star of the Sea a visitors’ book is filling up with messages of condolences from tourists from as far as California.
Parish priest Father John Paul MacKinnon, 42, a fellow islander from South Uist, is facing his biggest challenge as a priest.
“These are the most difficult days of my priesthood but we will stay strong through our faith in God,” he said.
“We have always felt on the edge of the world. We are a very caring but strong community which has survived much through the generations.
“That is in our upbringing and DNA. We will face this with strength and courage buoyed by our faith.
“I have been touched by the many messages of support from all over the world. People of all faiths and none have written, called, emailed and visited to offer their condolences and support.”
Back at the war memorial two tourists stand in the sunshine, taking in the view and reflecting on the tragedy they have chanced upon.
Paul and Helen Grant, from Edinburgh, admit they struggle to understand how such a remote island could become a victim of terrorism.
Helen, said: “It defies belief. Barra has to be one of the most beautiful places on earth. It’s people are a joy.
“Everybody has a kind word for you yet you can see in their eyes they are struggling with what has happened to these young girls.
“The days ahead for the parents will be so painful but the world is thinking of them.”
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