Travel: A whole new meaning to a holiday flip flop in St Lucia

It’s years since I’ve been to Serenity, the sister property to the rambling Coconut Bay Resort in St Lucia. Nevertheless it is still instantly recognisable from the manicured driveway that glides past towering palm trees on entering it.

On this occasion, I was headed to the family friendly oasis on the other side of the ground, which is divided into two distinct wings: Harmony, an adults-only hideaway – perfect for couples and honeymooners, with a private pool and ocean-front spa; and Splash, a family-friendly haven brimming with activities for all ages plus St Lucia’s largest water park.

As an all-inclusive, the hotel was bursting with activities and entertainment, from country nights to kite surfing and padel, this hidden gem is so close to Hewanorra International Airport, you could forget your passport at the gate and still have time to pop back to your safe to pick it up and not break a sweat!

However I was not here for the all-inclusive buffet or nachos and cheese sauce on tap, I was on a solo female break, which conveniently came with added fitness classes so if I did indulge too much in one of the eight restaurants, fitness instructor Vince held a range of classes to make sure I burnt off the calories the next day. There is even a handy laundry room if you’re travelling with messy kids, or just run out of clean swimwear!

The hotel

Although the hotel might resemble Lego bricks in the low-rise primary coloured blocks, each category of room is pristine, with views over the impeccably manicured grounds or pools with distant sea views.

Harmony is the adults only side of the resort, and is only for guests 18+ years of age and has two picturesque adults only pools and a hot tub, which are smaller and quieter than the pools found on the Splash side; you can even get married here with two exclusive wedding podiums and dedicated wedding planning team.

But, of course, guests staying at Harmony can also enjoy the amenities over on the Splash side, so you can flip flop between the two. The Kids Club here is open for daily enrolment between 9-10.30 on the day, and you can rest assured your offspring will make some new chums in the shaded playground. They’ll certainly have access to lots of activities with the friendly staff.

The hotel has plenty of space and direct access to Paradise Beach, which boasts even more loungers and a daytime bar and burger shack; new gazebos are also being finalised so Serenity and Coconut guests can have a little more privacy. Although the south (Atlantic) means that the beach attracts an influx of brown algae. However, the hotel does its best to rake this up every day so you can still enjoy its mile of sandy beach and amenities.

The rooms

The Harmony wing features romantic touches such as four-poster beds and private balconies. You’ll find a kettle, daily-stocked mini bar and ice machine and robes; while the Splash wing offers colourful, vibrant rooms equipped with everything a family of four might need during their stay including pull-out beds.

Total guest room refurbishments are planned for the quiet season later this year, so the entire hotel will be freshened up with new flooring and walls, and ironing boards, fridges and Molton Brown bathroom products are available across all room categories.

The dining

As an all-inclusive resort, the standard buffet served at Coconut Walk is great if you can’t make up your mind! Offering options for breakfast, lunch and dinner, a chef is on hand to create smoothies, crépes and omelettes. For lunch, guests have the option of grilled paninis, an extensive salad bar, tacos, pizza or nachos; while at dinner time, you can choose from a range of pasta, salads and stir-fries. If you fancy switching it up, there are a few speciality restaurants available – but they have limited seating so it’s a good idea to make a reservation. Meanwhile, the Jerk Treehouse, next to the Splash pool, offers daytime snacks including bbq jerk pork or chicken and fresh, hearty sides.

The Asian-inspired restaurant, Silk is an authentic treat, but you may need to order more than you think as the portions are not huge. The Caribbean-themed restaurant Casbah has low lighting and a romantic vibe. Situated on the upper level of the resort it feels as if you’re making more of an effort to go here, and the atmosphere is distinctly less boisterous than the other eateries. However, the two most exclusive outlets are the Greathouse Restaurant, which is based on a traditional colonial-style house, with a grand veranda, impressive ceiling fans and lots of dark wood, serving fusion cuisine within the Serenity complex. This restaurant is open for all, but those not staying at Serenity will have to pay for meals; if you’re celebrating, La Luna is the best spot to be. Suitable for a private party, you will be waited on hand and foot in an exclusive room balanced on stilts over the sea.

Things to do

The resort puts on a range of activities – ranging from Pilates to yoga and water aerobics, whilst the nights have themes such as a Country & Western Night, where the dinner buffet is served poolside with live music. Additionally, the resort offers several bars, including a swim-up bar, where guests can enjoy cocktails and soft drinks.

The Splash Pool is the main place to find all the action during the day – throughout the week they had little activities going on like Caribbean dance lessons, Bingo games, a foam party and even a lazy river rubber duck race for charity.

The beach is a hotspot for kitesurfers due to its Atlantic breeze and the resort has a watersports centre where you can take lessons or borrow the equipment. You can also loan paddleboards, snorkels and kayaks free of charge.

Dolphins splash in the deep blue waters.

The expansive CocoLand Water Park, complete with slides and a lazy river, is a hit with families, or you can don some overalls and take on a paintballing challenge (at an extra cost); tennis and basketball courts are free of charge. Those seeking relaxation can unwind in the oceanfront spa, indulge in yoga classes, or simply lounge by one of the resort’s five pools. If you do want to venture further afield, it’s a one-hour drive to Soufriere, one and a half hours to Castries and two to Rodney Bay.

There is a small shop on the first floor of the resort, which sells items such as snacks, sunscreen, and pool toys, which is particularly handy if you’ve left something at home or need snacks for your return flight. There are also two small boutique shops on the second floor, and a couple of times a week there is a local market held outdoors.

P.S. The Soufriere volcano last erupted in 1776. It originated from a weak spot in the crust of a collapsed volcanic crater, and is considered to be a dormant volcano. One of the best features of the volcano is the ability to literally drive into the crater, where you can see the mud bubbling… and then dive into a volcanic mud bath.

Factfile

Rates for 2025 start from £527 a night on an all-inclusive basis, based on 2 people sharing, for a Deluxe Garden Splash or a Deluxe Garden Harmony room. There are direct flights with Virgin Atlantic or BA from London. Coconut Bay Resort and Spa – cbayresort.com/