Travel: Creating great memories in Swedish Lapland

Aururoa over Swedish Lapland. — Aurora over Kiruna Lapland.

In my possession is a certificate declaring I achieved something not many tourists have – crossing the Arctic Circle. It was a pleasant surprise to be presented with it. And, when you venture to Swedish Lapland there are plenty more surprises in store for those who want to escape to a far-less-travelled wonderland.

Very few know about Swedish Lapland, but the Swedes and the Sami (indigenous people living in the north) as well as tourist board Visit Sweden want to share this best-kept Nordic secret. So, I am only too happy to start at the most northerly part of Swedish Lapland (Kiruna) before snaking down south to the snow-clad coast during a five-day visit.

After 11 hours and three flights from Edinburgh-Zurich-Stockholm-Kiruna, I arrive, ready to take on my Arctic adventure (although my suitcase wasn’t, it never arrived until day four of five).

It began with an overnight stay in Kiruna’s Camp Ripan, a former campsite which has expanded to include 90 cabins (and a spa), capitalising on all-year-round tourism. After dining on Jerusalem artichoke soup followed by reindeer sirloin (which was on my must-try list), we embark on a post-dinner wander around the town – which, due to the instability of the iron ore mine in the area, is to be relocated during “the world’s most radical relocation project”.

And if you have seen The Abyss on Netflix, you will already be aware of the mine’s subsidence. As we stand on the edge of the town, next to an abandoned hotel overlooking the mine’s main gates, the sheer scale of the project and what it means for the town hits home. Louise Johansson, who is from Kiruna, explains that as part of this fascinating feat, all the shops have already been relocated and soon the local church will be moved as a solid structure, which means new roads will need to be laid to accommodate its journey.

Then we depart for Kangos (population 250), to Lapland Guesthouse and it is here I experience traditional Lappish activities. People are drawn to visit here both in summer and in winter because of the nature and the changing landscape, but autumn is the best time to see the Northern Lights, we learn, as the snow doesn’t reflect the light. This family-run resort is spread over 1.3 hectares and boasts large luxury lodges as well as smaller bothy-style cabins. I stay in the €500-a-night Rangifer.

Next day, we venture out to a snow-covered track to race some quads with guesthouse owner Johan and son Elias, before an al fresco lunch of Souvas (smoked reindeer) by the frozen lake, suitably wrapped up in fur-lined coats and salopettes supplied by the guesthouse. Then we board sleighs pulled by snowmobiles and head out to try our hand at ice fishing as the sun sets. Drilling the tiny hole in the very thick ice is hard work. And, fortunately, Lapland Guesthouse’s talented Argentinian chef, Eva, has a warm home-cooked meal waiting for us on our return because we never caught a thing.

As a foodie, I loved the range of meat and fish dishes served during my trip. That night, we dine on a beautifully presented salmon tartar starter followed by moose filled with bacon and plums, before a brownie with lingonberries in a chocolate cup for dessert.

After dinner, we take advantage of another Swedish tradition and head to the on-site sauna and outdoor jacuzzi before calling it a night. Sitting there, in sub-zero temperatures in the dark, surrounded by thick snow, looking up to the near-cloudless sky, in the hope of seeing the elusive Northern Lights is a memory I will treasure.

The following morning, we head to Jockfall (pronounced: yok-fal) which is almost as famous for salmon fishing as Scotland. We enjoy an hour-long snowshoe trek across an ice river and through forests; admiring the scenery as we trudge. We then embark on a trip to a reindeer farm, owned by Sami lady Anna-Lena Kaati. She is waiting for us with her favourite reindeer at the gate as we pull in. There, we hear about Anna-Lena’s challenges growing up in a Sami family in Sweden over “Fika” (a social institution in Sweden consisting of coffee and pastry) by an open fire. Then we head into the pen to meet her herd, including one very tame reindeer she raised from birth and taught how to beg for food. A rather chilly but picturesque snowmobile tour at dusk – the most popular activity offered at Jockfall – and a second sauna concludes the day.

En route to Nordic Lapland Resort, on day four, we cross the Arctic Circle when we call in at Kukkolaforsen on the banks of the Torne River, a natural border with neighbouring Finland. There, we lunch in a smokehouse on smoked salmon, potatoes and a local sauce. It’s been in Mathias’s family for five generations and, as we dine, he regales stories of family parties and local gatherings in this very smokehouse, which is open to the public.

The final day/night is spent at Nordic Lapland Resort which offers several Arctic activities like its counterparts further north. Its 25 cabins on-site are open all year round – but it’s hard to believe beneath all that snow and thick ice, is a beautiful beach and sun-kissed bay in summer. One thing owners Sebastian and Janne are most proud of is their on-site dog-sledding experience. We sit on the sled behind the barking Huskies and Siberians, before speeding off across the sea ice and through the forests. The only sounds are the dogs’ paws padding on the ice, the occasional commands from our driver, and the sleigh runners slicing through the snow. It was a spectacular experience.

Because it is less touristy than its Finnish cousin of the same name, Swedish Lapland offers a more authentic experience for those who don’t want to follow the crowd. After five days, I conclude that it was truly memorable and, as I did not witness the famous Northern Lights this time, it’s a great excuse to plan a return visit one autumn.

P.S. If you are a gin or vodka lover, then it’s worth calling in to Norbottens Distillery in Töre in Kalix. Run by former international poker player, Dennis Bejedal, as a “passion project”, the distillery produces nine spirits.