Vaujany: Learn the slopes at a family skiing getaway

Everyone has an idealised image of the perfect ski holiday: swishing down an empty ski run, spectacular Alpine views, gallons of melted cheese and, of course, a little apres ski to finish off a day in the mountains. And that is pretty accurate…until you have children.

Then the reality of skiing with kids bites and it can be more tantrums and tears than T-bars and tequila. So when I decided, in a moment of foolhardiness, to take my two young daughters skiing on my own (in other words, without my wife to keep me from doing anything stupid), friends and family were a little concerned – for my sanity as much as anything else.

They need not have worried. Our destination was Vaujany, a small farming village on the edge of the extensive Alpe d’Huez ski resort. The village is relatively close to either Grenoble (one-hour transfer) or Geneva (two and a half hours) both of which have direct flights from Edinburgh (there are direct flights from Glasgow to Geneva also).

Arriving by taxi transfer, the authenticity and charm of Vaujany is immediately apparent, old stone and wood animal barns are dotted around the village, a reminder of its agricultural past. There was the smell of wood smoke drifting in the air and bells rang out from the local church, which rests on a lower level, forming the most magnificent views down the valley.

We were staying at Hotel Les Cimes, a stylish hotel that blends the traditional feel of an Alpine ski hotel with the contemporary décor and service you’d expect from a luxury destination.

Inside, the hotel is warm and modern, with panoramic views from every window. Our room was cosy and fully kitted out with all the mod cons, with plenty of space to store bulky ski gear. The small balcony was the perfect place to watch as the stars twinkled into being in the inky-black sky above the mountains.

Where Vaujany really comes into its own however is in its relatively compact nature. The whole village is stacked on the mountain like layers of a wedding cake and we were able to walk the couple of hundred yards to the ski hire without too much grumbling from tiny legs. From there, the ski lifts were less than 100 yards away.

Part of the Alpe d’Huez grand domain, the gondola gives you access to Montfrais ski area and a cable car will transport you to the Alpette area. Linking a few lifts together will get you to the bustling and gloriously wide Alpe d’Huez. But it is back at Montfrais that we are staying for starters. Here, the kids can go to ski school or opt for a one-to-one lesson and the slopes are very quiet. No waiting around in queues for lifts and plenty of space (and snow) for the girls to find their feet after nearly a year away from the slopes.

The sun was shining on the opposite side of the mountain, and from this vantage we can make out the snake-like trails made by daredevils carving out lines in the deep off-piste snow.

At Montfrais things were much more sedate, with nursery slopes and loads of easy greens and blues for a relaxed day of family skiing. There are great options for food on the mountain too. We had a lunch at Les Airelles, an authentic Alpine cottage with a large sundeck where we bathed in the glorious sunshine with a cold drink as the kids enjoyed burgers and strawberry milk.

As the children grew more confident, we begin to venture further up the mountain to Alpette, at 2,050 metres. The snow is amazing and it was still marvellously quiet up here, perfect for gaining more confidence on trickier runs. From there it is a hop over to Alpe d’Huez to unlock all the magnificent routes, like the famous Tunnel Piste that takes you through a 300-metre tunnel bored into the mountain.

Alpe d’Huez also has lots of activities for non-skiers or those looking for something a little different. While we were there, we tried out the husky sledding, which was amazing fun and a firm favourite with the kids. We also watched as people literally skied off the mountain before sailing overhead on a paragliding tour. The sight of the tandem paragliders gently landing on the soft snow did make me wish I’d been brave enough to take part. Next time.

We stayed in Alpe d’Huez for lunch at Au Trappeur. It was recommended by one of the knowledgeable Ski France staff, and they clearly know good food. The menu was simple, burgers, fries and enough melted cheese to sink a small cruise ship. We didn’t so much walk as waddle out but it was the ideal fare for more energy-sapping fun on the slopes. We took the Marcel’s Farm run, a winding route that not only gives you great views of the resort but is also great fun, with a half-pipe, tunnel and small hills for the kids to enjoy.

Back in Vaujany, dinner at Hotel Les Cimes is the classic melted reblochon cheese with meat and potatoes. It is excellent and, paired with some nice wine and incredible views of the sunset, is hard to top.

The joys of Vaujany, which was transformed from a quintessential French farming hamlet into a thoroughly modern yet magically peaceful ski destination, are not done yet though. After dinner we walked the short distance to the local swimming pool, where the kids spent the evening splashing about and enjoying the slides. Vaujany also has a bowling alley and an ice rink, so the options for family entertainment are excellent. There is also a crèche if the parents need a little down time.

With its compact size, ease of access to the lifts and quieter evenings, plus its proximity to the more lively Alpe d’Huez, if anyone in the group fancies some more upbeat apres ski, Vaujany is an excellent choice for a stress-free family ski holiday.

P.S. Vaujany has its own museum, with information on the local wildlife that can be seen, as well as facts about the village’s history and some great interactive games, such as a flight simulator that allows you to take a virtual tour of the valley. Entry to the museum is free and is well worth a family visit to help broaden tiny minds. www.vaujany.com