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Travel: Warm welcome on the Isle of Skye made our Storr trek even better

The Old Man of Storr, situated on the Trotternish peninsula of the Isle of Skye, Scotland (Getty Images)
The Old Man of Storr, situated on the Trotternish peninsula of the Isle of Skye, Scotland (Getty Images)

LIFE’S all about adventures.

My other half would have thrown me a dirty look after I uttered those words of wisdom had her eyes not been fixed on the road as if her life depended on it.

We were hurtling along a road that the word remote doesn’t begin to describe, with only the occasional withering look from a sheep providing a break from the all-encompassing blackness.

We had been exploring Skye when we came upon the ferry terminal to Raasay.

It was just about to leave – let’s go for it!

By the time we made the short journey across, dusk had turned to dark and the helpful shopkeeper on the island did his best to dissuade us from driving out to the famous Calum’s Road. With only 90 minutes or so until the return ferry to Skye, it would be too tight. But with little else to do, we (and by ‘we’ I mean I) elected to give it a go anyway, a decision I made from the comfort of the passenger seat.

Not only did we reach Calum’s Road (named after a hardy local who constructed almost two miles of road using just a pick, shovel and wheelbarrow), we made it back to the terminal with at least a minute to spare.

This was our first experience of being the only passengers on a CalMac ferry, but it allowed us an opportunity to chat with the staff, who laughed when we said what we’d just done.

“It’s just as well you couldn’t see where you were going,” said one. “It’s a sheer drop along the side of the road.”

I watched the colour drain from my partner’s face, but as far as I was concerned that simply made us even, because earlier in the day she’d decided we had to see The Old Man of Storr.

Now at this point I should point out it was miserable. The rain was coming down, the mist was already there and the wind was circling.

But off we went anyway, up the ascent to see the craggy cliff face.

The difference between winter and waterproof clothing – I was wearing the former – was driven home as I reached the top of the viewing point, soaked to the skin but lovely and warm.

Now I’d love to say it was worth the climb but considering I could barely see my hand in front of my face, I’d be lying.

So by the time we made our way back to the hotel, we were in need of some home comforts, good food and relaxing surroundings.

Having arrived the night before after a long drive from the central belt, we knew that was exactly what Skeabost House Hotel would provide.

The beautiful old white-painted building, located seven miles from Portree, dates back to 1871 but has been lovingly restored by Anne Gracie and Ken Gunn, whose accolades include Scottish Hoteliers of the Year.

The 18-bedroom Skeabost, winner of seven regional prizes at the Scottish Hotel Awards last week, sits in 23 acres of stunning woodland and on the edge of a loch. It has its own nine-hole golf course and the River Snizort, which is well worth taking a walk beside, runs through the grounds.

But at this time of year the emphasis is on the indoors.

With a toasty fireside, warming whisky and, best of all, a warm welcome, this is the ideal place to banish the winter blues.

The room, with its stunning four-poster bed and a bathroom bigger than most people’s living rooms, expertly combined traditional décor with modern touches.

On both evenings the three-course dinner was beautifully presented – and tasted even better.

Skeabost Hotel
Skeabost Hotel

And what better way to relax after a scrumptious meal than in the adjoining snug, where the fire was roaring, the chatty staff talked to us like old friends and the incredibly well-stocked bar offered up no end of choices.

The following morning we took a tour of Talisker, Skye’s only distillery and visited the magical Fairy Pools, a crystal-clear stream of mini-waterfalls and pools at the foot of the Black Cuillins.

No matter the weather, this was a walk worth making, and we weren’t the only ones to think so evidenced by the steady flow of people making their way excitedly down into the glen.

Fairy Pools, Isle of Skye (Getty Images)
Fairy Pools, Isle of Skye (Getty Images)

As we packed the car we felt sad about leaving the hotel so soon.

But if we ever return we can be assured of one thing, no matter the time of year the trip will be worthwhile for the hospitality awaiting us at Skeabost.