Yorkshire market town Helmsley makes a big impression – you couldn’t ask for anything Moor!

SOMETIMES you just arrive somewhere and know you’re going to like it.

And from the minute we drive into Helmsley we know that’s the case.

It’s the only market town in the North York Moors National Park and proves the perfect base for some great walking, sightseeing and much-needed R&R.

The going-to-like-it feeling increases when we check into the Feversham Arms Hotel & Verbena Spa in the shadow of the historic church.

It was originally an old coaching inn, but, boy, is it anything but now. We have to double-check we’ve not stumbled into some alternate universe because Yorkshire suddenly seems far removed.

That might be something to do with looking out on a courtyard with a massive outdoor swimming pool (a toasty 30 degrees) and a big jacuzzi (an even toastier 40 degrees).

We appreciate it even more from our room, or rather suite.

The spa suites on the second floor are among the newer additions and the huge decked, glass-fronted balcony gives a perfect view to the courtyard below. The suite itself is a cracker, with half-panelled walls, high ceilings, underfloor heating and sliding doors outside from both the bedroom and lounge.

Nice touches abound. Just one is the cute toy sheep you pop outside your room rather than a ‘do not disturb’ sign.

We venture out to check out the town and first impressions hadn’t deceived.

It’s lovely, all blond stone and not a neon sign or identikit chain shop in sight.

Tempting cafes, galleries and craft shops abound, both on the streets off the main square and the little lanes running off them.

The castle catches our attention, too, and we find out how it evolved from a medieval fortress through a smart Tudor mansion to a Victorian ruin with an air of romance.

There’s another splendid castle – and equally splendid town – just along the road in Pickering but that has to wait until the next day as a fine meal in the hotel’s Weathervane restaurant beckons.

The ceiling windows let the remaining light pour in and the three-course menu is beautifully served and as fine as everything else about this award-winning hotel.

Particular mention to the dry-aged beef, carrots and heritage potato.

Next day, after a tummy-filling breakfast in the Weathervane we make it to Pickering.

It’s worth the climb up to see the 13th Century castle that was a royal hunting lodge among much else in its rich history.

Pickering is also the starting point for the North Yorkshire Moors Railway, which is celebrating 50 years since the foundation of the charitable trust that got trains running after the line’s closure.

We love the feeling of stepping back in time as we board one of the steam locos that pulls the period carriages all the way up to Whitby.

We can’t resist getting off at Goathland, so familiar to us from the first Harry Potter film and, of course, TV’s Heartbeat.

We wander just five minutes up the steep hill for a pint and a sandwich in the Goathland Hotel, better known as the Aidensfield Arms.

Back in Helmsley there’s time for a look around the National Centre for Birds of Prey.

It’s just two minutes’ drive or 10-minute walk through the vast Duncombe Park on the outskirts.

The highlight is one of the thrice-daily flying demonstrations.

The handlers obviously love their birds and we see the wonder of eagles and owls up close, but the sight of a Lanner Falcon swooping down from a dot in the sky to a blur right at our feet will be hard to forget.

And after a relaxing massage at the hotel’s super-classy Verbana spa – not that any relaxing at all was needed by this time – and a swim in the pool in the late afternoon sunshine we note to always trust our instincts in future.

We KNEW this was going to be special.

Facts

Feversham Arms Hotel and Verbena Spa is a member of the Pride of Britain Hotels
collection. The Spa offers a range of treatments including massages priced from
£40 for 30 minutes.

A one-night stay costs from £160 per room (two sharing) including full English breakfast. 0800 089 3929 prideofbritainhotels.com Also nymr.co.uk, ncbp.co.uk and yorkshire.com