New airline route has opened Morroco’s Essaouira up to the world.
It’s 3pm, and the sun is kissing the dusty walls of the medina. A street vendor plunges fresh sugar canes and lemons into a juicer to make the kind of lemonade Gwyneth Paltrow can only dream of.
Across the street, two men are deep in conversation, oblivious to the tourists surveying the stacks of colourful ceramics on their stall.
A stray kitten dozes beside them in a puddle of sunlight. There’s no hustle; no desperate plea when their potential buyers saunter off empty-handed.
This is as chilled out as a Moroccan souk gets but it’s what I’ve come to expect from the blissfully laid-back seaside town of Essaouira (pronounced ‘es-sweera’).
A former bohemian enclave on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, I wouldn’t say it’s undiscovered but it’s certainly a more under-the-radar and much less frenetic destination than Marrakech.
Until recently, there was no direct route to Essaouira from the UK; you had to fly to Marrakech then make the two-hour journey. That’s all changed with easyJet’s new flight from Luton to Essaouira. This still requires a quick stopover for Scottish travellers but go via Marrakech and you might bump into David Beckham en route (he just celebrated his 40th there).
At three-and-a-half hours, the flight’s a cinch even for those with fidgety feet and the mosaic-tiled airport, fragrant with orange blossom, makes for a more pleasant arrival than most.
Even more welcoming are the warm and chatty locals, known as Souris, as I discover when I take an enjoyable if bumpy camel trek along the beach.
“One thousand welcomes!” calls a man on horseback as he passes me on the wind-rippled sand dunes. I try to respond but multi-tasking isn’t my forte when I’m astride a hump and trying not to tumble off.
Later, I meet Jamil, who hails from Morocco’s capital Rabat but much prefers the languid charm of Essaouira. “It’s my favourite place in Morocco,” he confides. “I love everything: the landscapes, the atmosphere, the surfing…”
Nicknamed the Windy City of Africa, Essaouira attracts a steady stream of wind-surfers and kite-surfers throughout the year, peaking between June and September when the gusts drive some serious swell.
Even in May, it’s breezy enough to take the edge off the fierce sun. I feel it most keenly by the harbour, a busy port bobbing with cobalt blue fishing boats.
Sea bream and sardines abound in this seafood lover’s paradise. You can even buy the catch of the day lobster, shrimp, red snapper from the white-and-blue stalls dotted around the marina, then have it barbecued over hot coals at one of the eateries lining the waterfront.
Alternatively, head to Le Chalet de la Plage for platters of heavenly fruits de mer and a front-row view of the sparkling sea. Here, I gorge on plump smoked prawns, sea urchins and melt-in-the-mouth sea bass, perfectly paired with a crisp vin gris (a pale ros).
This wine is actually produced around 15 minutes outside Essaouira at Le Val d’Argan (valdargan.com), a vineyard that offers tours and wine-tasting sessions. I trick myself into believing I’m strolling through the lush fields of Provence, until a call to prayer echoes through the surrounding olive trees.
That’s the thing about Essaouira: it’s a cultural melting pot. Within the French-designed medina you’ll find a Muslim area, Jewish quarter (Mellah) and Scala, where bronze cannon nestle in the towering Portuguese-built ramparts. I could spend days exploring its every nook and cranny.
The fallen ruins of a watchtower lie on the beach nearby, and many Souris claim it inspired Jimi Hendrix’s Castles Made of Sand after he visited in 1969 (unlikely it was released in ’67).
With its vibrant music scene, it’s no surprise that Essaouira attracted the likes of Hendrix and Mick Jagger. One of my happiest moments comes at the beautiful Hotel Riad Al Madina (riadalmadina.com), where the joyous African-Islamic rhythms of the Gnawa musicians entice me on to the tiled dance floor.
Afterwards, I make a beeline for the rooftop bar at Taros (taroscafe.com), which attracts a stylish crowd. When the night air turns nippy, the staff hand out jazzy ponchos but the gin cocktails are strong enough to fend off the chill.
And if one too many drinks leave you feeling tender of a Sunday, make like a true Moroccan and visit a hammam for a spot of pampering.
Look no further than the luxurious Heure Bleue Palais (heure-bleue.com) for an indulgent massage using locally-produced Argan oil, rounded off with a pot of sweet mint tea, of course.
easyJet holidays have 11 hotels in Essaouira, with three-five star options available. easyJet flies twice a week (Monday and Friday) from Luton to Essaouira.
Four nights B&B at five-star Sofitel Essaouira Mogador Golf and Spa Hotel, departing from Luton on June 22, costs from £253 per person. Prices include flights and accommodation, based on two sharing. To book visit www.easyjet.com/holidays or tel: 020 3499 5232. Tourism info from www.visitmorocco.com.
Report by Natasha Radmehr
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