There’s no denying it Cork’s a cracker.
It’s one of the most atmospheric and charming of all Ireland’s cities and, whether you want a weekend of cultural delights, or just some excellent craic, live music and nightlife, Cork won’t disappoint.
Don’t get me wrong, I love Dublin. But it’s very much a capital city, whereas by the time I get to Cork I feel I’m in the real Ireland; the Ireland of yesteryear, yet with all the bells and whistles of the 21st Century. The folk help, of course!
Maybe it’s their proximity to the Blarney Stone, but Cork’s inhabitants are known to be some of the friendliest in the Republic, and that’s saying something in Ireland. They make you feel welcome from the minute you arrive, offering advice on which pub to hit at just what time on a Saturday night. You won’t leave Cork without having made a few new friends that’s guaranteed.
Walk around Ireland’s second city and you’re likely to spot someone wearing a T-shirt emblazoned with the slogan “The People’s Republic of Cork”.
It’s just one of many declarations of independence you’ll find in the city and perfectly embodies the city’s rebel spirit and non-conformist zeal.
St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral is Cork’s pride and joy.
Built on what is now Bishop Street, on the site of the monastery which was the first building here in 600 AD, this 19th Century church makes for a stern addition to Cork’s skyline, and is worth a look inside for its beautiful sculptures and altar.
Cork’s other main church is St. Anne’s on John Redmond Street. Climb the 18th Century tower and, as a reward for all that puffing, you’ll be invited to pick out a tune on the church’s eight bells.
Don’t worry, they have cards with marked out tunes and numbered bell-ropes! Great fun, especially for kids.
The ever-expanding Cork City Museum at Fitzgerald Park will give you a good insight into the history of both the town and the region of Cork, with its wide collection of arts, crafts and other artefacts on display.
You might not have known, but from the 17th Century Cork was a major butter exporter, and you can learn all about it at the Cork Butter Museum. This intriguing attraction is open every day except Saturday at O’Connell Square. The Beamish and Crawford Brewery Tour lets you in on the secret of great Irish beer. They’ll take you round the factory and let you have a sample at the end of it, so it’s a fun visit if you’ve worked up a thirst. A favourite!
In the same building as the City Gaol worth a visit if you’ve kids with you, or hit a wet afternoon is the intriguing Irish Radio Museum.
Here you can have the history of radio explained as it happened both here and in the rest of the world.
If you’re in Cork on a Saturday morning don’t miss the market which dates back to 1788. There’s a weekly open-air one in the Cornmarket, where stalls sell honey, home-made jam, cheeses, ceramics and hand-made crafts.
Just round the corner is the English Market, a century-old covered market with a vaulted roof and lots of beams.
It’s a reminder of how food used to be and still is if you’re lucky enough to live in Cork.
There’s designer bread, artisan cheeses, olives and organic everything. It’s a great place to gather a picnic together. Pop upstairs to the Farmgate cafe for lunch.
Cork’s famous dish is tripe and drisheen (blood sausage) but you can order equally nourishing liver and bacon or lamb stew.
Things can get a little mad in the cosy, friendly pubs here in Cork. You’ll find somewhere to drink at almost every second step, and you’ll be properly spoiled for choice when it comes to picking the best.
Anywhere along the main Patrick Street is a good bet, or just follow your ears, as many bars have some kind of live music going on all night.
Cork’s best bar, Bodega, is in a large, open-plan converted warehouse, with whitewashed walls, tall mirrors, wooden floors and exposed beams.
DJs play in the evenings, there’s a weekend club space and good food. Great for weekend brunches of Bloody Marys, big Irish breakfasts, and eggs Benedict.
Sin E (8 Coburg Street,) is the best place in town for traditional Irish music, either in the corner of the old atmospheric ground floor bar or in the brighter upstairs lounge. There’s also a great selection of local brews.
Come nightfall check out what’s on at Cork’s modern opera house. Don’t worry, it’s not all opera and you don’t have to dress up!
The programme includes everything from folk legend Christy Moore and the Irish Tenors to the Nutcracker, Aida and the Bootleg Beatles.
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